We Survived the Moquah Bar

September 17, 2026 / mariezhuikov / 1 Comment

*My shadow in front of the Moquah Bar. Proof that I really was there!*

During a recent camping trip to the town of Brule in northern Wisconsin, Russ and I meandered to a place we’d noticed several times on a highway detour a few years ago. This establishment is in the tiny town of Moquah (pronounced Muck-wa, Algonquin for bear). Whenever we passed the small building, the door was always open, which looked inviting. Not so inviting was its ramshackle plywood construction. Through the open door, we could glimpse a low ceiling and bar stools. The homemade sign out front proclaimed this intriguing venue was the Moquah Bar.

At 5 p.m. on a Saturday, we girded our loins and decided to pay the bar a visit. We parked out back by the outhouse, also made of plywood. We walked past the outdoor seating area, which consisted of picnic tables on a cement slab surrounded by concrete blocks. Evidence of last night’s festivities (or maybe several nights’ worth) littered the tables. Apparently, if patrons don’t pick up after themselves, nobody else does, either.

We peeked inside the open doorway. Dollar bills, graffiti, can cozies, bras, and underwear festooned the ceiling and walls. Nobody else was there except for a white-haired man behind the bar. He looked up from his book but didn’t offer a greeting. I got the feeling he’d rather keep reading. And I was okay with that. I’m an author, after all!

We later learned (thanks to social media) that the barkeep/owner’s name is Bud. He’s been running the bar since 1975. When it burned in the 1980s, Bud slapped together a new place out of plywood. The Moquah Bar is known as the Plywood Palace, and also as one of Wisconsin’s diviest dive bars.

We tried to engage Bud in conversation, but he’s hard of hearing, so that didn’t last long. Russ managed to ask him what the story was with all the ceiling decorations. Bud said it was something people “just decided to do.”

Russ was impressed that the bar refrigerator had an N/A beer he could drink. I made the mistake of ordering a shot of brandy. This was a mistake not because of the taste, but because it came in a glass. Word on the street is that Bud doesn’t wash the glassware. Maybe he thinks the alcohol kills the germs? Come to think of it, I’m not sure that the bar has running water. That could be the real reason! I was blissfully ignorant of the “don’t drink from a glass” unwritten rule at the time and enjoyed my shot.

We wandered around the bar, marveling at the sights, which included a broken jukebox, a foosball table, and a two-inch gap in the roof where the back bar structure joins the front. Russ signed a dollar bill with a sharpie and added it to a post with a thumbtack. A few minutes later, the dysfunction of the place weighed too heavily on me. “We’ve got to get out of here!” I hissed to Russ. He agreed. We said our goodbyes to Bud and left.

As we passed the outhouse on the way to our car, Russ helpfully suggested I use it before our drive back to the campground. You can guess the look I gave him! Once on the road, although we were relieved to be out of the bar, we were also proud that we were brave enough to visit it. This bar was quite the opposite experience of our visit to Ravenstone Abbey pub.

Another acquaintance of mine recently visited the bar. To see his account and more photos, visit the Perfect Duluth Day blog.

So, we visited the Plywood Palace and lived to tell the tale! But wait. Is that a fever I feel coming on…?

Ravenstone Abbey

September 11, 2026 / mariezhuikov / 12 Comments

In a small town on Minnesota’s Iron Range, a boy and his friend scooter along the sidewalk outside a restaurant. One boy mentions he needs to use the bathroom and begins to head toward a nearby park with public restrooms. The other boy, heavyset and wearing a red T-shirt, enters the restaurant’s fenced yard and approaches a large stone with a sword sticking out of it.

“You trying that again? You’ll never do it!” says the Bathroom Boy, continuing on his way.

Red T-shirt Boy crouches and tugs on the sword, pulling with all his might.

Alas, the sword does not budge. Red T-shirt Boy will not become the future King of England. But he can dream, can’t he?

As you may have guessed by now, the restaurant that features the Excalibur sword is not your normal restaurant. On the National Register of Historic Places, Ravenstone Abbey in Coleraine is the stuff of Medieval dreams. A pub/restaurant, coffee shop/bistro, and axe-throwing dungeon are housed in a painstakingly renovated 1908-era Methodist Episcopal Church/YMCA.

The building served as a church until 1976, when it was abandoned and fell into disrepair. The windows were boarded up, water leaked through holes in the roof, and animals took up residence.

Once they saw it by chance in 2021, future owners Jozsef and Sue Palavics fell in love with the derelict building and its towering stone walls (made from local stone) and stained-glass windows. By 2024, as their website says, they created “a place where history meets modernity, where the old-world charm of a medieval castle blends seamlessly with the excitement of a contemporary event venue.”

Russ and I meandered up to Coleraine one evening for supper at the abbey. As we sat at our table next to one of the original stone walls, we appreciated the oil lamp on the table, which was held by a small knight figurine in shining armor.

I ordered The Queens Salad, which featured mixed greens, mandarin oranges, red onion, feta cheese, pecans, and dried cranberries with a poppyseed dressing. Russ ordered The Kings Salad, which featured romaine lettuce topped with buffalo chicken, diced tomatoes, cheddar cheese, bacon, red onions, and croutons with a buffalo ranch dressing.

Both were reasonably priced and delicious! I also ordered a refreshing gin gimlet. The service was excellent, and our waiter helped me navigate my food intolerances (wheat/corn) to find something I could eat.

Once finished, we peeked into the Axehole Dungeon. Nobody was throwing any axes at the time, but it looked like fun. We did not partake, but are keeping the experience in mind if we take guests there someday.

As we left, Russ sat in the giant wooden “throne” in the entryway for a photo op. We walked to our car, noting some young girl urchins playing along the side of the building. I loved that the local children felt welcome there.

If you ever find yourself in northern Minnesota, indulge the imaginative child in you and check out Ravenstone Abbey! Maybe throw an axe or two while you’re there. (As per usual, I was not paid to say this.) 😊

The Plovers Have Landed!

September 2, 2026September 2, 2026 / mariezhuikov / 13 Comments

*The piping plover pair that nested on Wisconsin Point this summer. The birds are marked with colored plastic bands to identify and track individuals*. *Photo credit: Mikayla Erickson*

I’m happy to announce that the endangered piping plover shorebirds (Charadrius melodus) have nested for the first time in 49 years in Superior, Wisconsin. This culminates years of habitat restoration work by many groups, including the St. Louis River Alliance, which I worked for in the past. I wrote the first grant to receive funding for this work, but I left the Alliance for my Sea Grant job before I could see the results come to fruition.

I took what I learned through that experience and applied it to my second eco-mystic-romance novel, Plover Landing. The book tells the story of Melora, who is fighting to save the habitat of these birds on the shores of Lake Superior. It was published in 2014.

In Plover Landing, the birds nest on Minnesota Point, but in recent reality, they nested in a bird sanctuary on Wisconsin Point. We’d often had reports of single plovers passing through on migration, but this time, a male and female plover must have been passing through at the same time and decided to make a go of it.

Alas, their nesting efforts were not successful, but natural resource managers hope they might return next spring and try again. Here’s a link to a good Wisconsin Public Radio story about the topic.

I am so excited to see the situation I dreamed of in my novel burst into reality! And I’m happy that these adorable birds are making a comeback.

If you’re interested in my books, please check out my Books page. And if you live in the Twin Ports, be sure to visit my booth at Chester Bowl Fall Fest in Duluth on September 19^th. I’ll be selling and autographing books along with local poet Stanley Kusunoki.

Adventures of a Newbie Road Scholar Trip Leader

August 26, 2026 / mariezhuikov / 26 Comments

*Road Scholars view microscopic zooplankton and algae from Lake Superior on a computer screen aboard a boat.*

Well, my initiation as a Road Scholar trip leader is over! As you may recall, I was hired this summer to lead two trips of people ages 50+ along the shores of Lake Superior. Each trip lasted about five days. We hiked in state parks, canoed down a wild river, heard from local experts, and plied Lake Superior’s waters on a science mission.

During the first trip, an experienced co-leader showed me the ropes. In the second trip, different people supported me each day, but leadership was up to me. Due to the excellent orientation I received during my first trip, I felt fairly confident leading the second one. But I still messed up a few times. The mistakes were minor, and I’d like to think they involved issues that the scholar tourists didn’t notice.

*An ocean-going ship at anchor in Lake Superior.*

The weather was wonderful and so was the clientele. Their ages ranged from mid-fifties to mid-eighties. I was impressed by their curiosity, enthusiasm, intellect, and good attitudes despite physical challenges. Even though the program was rated as moderate to hard, some scholars had recently replaced joints or used a cane to get around. We had some falls (which resulted in only minor scrapes), and some difficulty getting people out of canoes and kayaks at a tricky landing, but I’m happy to say that everyone completed the trip otherwise unscathed.

On the other hand, I was exhausted! By the end, I was glad not to wake up to an alarm every morning and to return to my routine. But I immensely enjoyed showing the scholars this part of the world. Topics included geology, botany, aquatic science, Native culture, and maritime history. I’d like to think they all left with greater appreciation for Lake Superior and the communities that surround it. As I mentioned to them, they probably know more than most locals now. If I’m able, I’d be willing to do it again next year, especially now that I know what I’m doing and would have a year to recover. 😊

Between the two trips, I discovered I had Lyme disease thanks to a deer tick I picked up during my recent stay in Brule, Wisconsin, which added to my exhaustion. But the antibiotics for it soon had me feeling more like myself.

I’m including some of my favorite images from the trips with this post.

*The Superior Ship Canal entry as seen from the back of a boat*

Disclaimer: The views in this article are my own. They do not represent views of the official Road Scholar Program.

Stepping Back in Time at Bark Bay Slough

August 15, 2026 / mariezhuikov / 12 Comments

My friends and I were supposed to go into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness in mid-July. Unfortunately, wildfires happened there and in Canada. The fire danger was so high and the air quality so poor that the Forest Service closed the entire wilderness! It seems funny that a wilderness can be closed, but there you have it.

We wanted to do something together nevertheless, so we needed to come up with a Plan B. We decided to spend a few days in a friend of a friend’s cabin in Brule, Wisconsin.

Besides enjoying meals of whitefish from Lake Superior, hiking, and chasing waterfalls, we satisfied our need for canoeing with an afternoon trip on Bark Bay Slough, near Herbster. I’d been to the canoe landing there before but never had time to venture out on the water, so I was looking forward to this trip.

The three of us piled into my Old Blue canoe with our camp chairs and books. We headed out onto the smooth water toward the bay mouth, where the slough empties into Lake Superior. Bark Bay Slough is bounded by the mainland on one side and a two-mile sandspit on the other. It’s a Scientific and Natural Area full of floating bog islands, birds, fen and bog plants that’s managed by the state of WI.

*Old Blue where the slough meets Lake Superior.*

As we paddled, I thought about how the Duluth-Superior Harbor back home used to look like this slough before dredging occurred for shipping and the Duluth canal was cut, which allowed the bog islands to just float away into Lake Superior. Canoeing the slough was like stepping back in time.

We passed modest cabins perched on the sandspit and amused ourselves by pointing out which ones we would like to own if we could. None of us chose the beaver house, though, that came into view. Even though it looked well-constructed and had wild roses in the “yard,” that particular house would have been too dark and damp. No windows!

Eventually, we reached the bay mouth, which was surrounded on both sides by sand beaches. We landed our canoe and spent the rest of the afternoon swimming in the cold waters, lying in the sun, wandering, and reading.

Finally, the lure of an ice cream store in Herbster dragged us back into the canoe for our return paddle.

Reflecting on our adventure at Bark Bay Slough, I realize how sometimes the best memories are made when plans change. The peaceful beauty of the slough, the laughter shared with friends, and the chance to experience a landscape lost elsewhere left a lasting impression. Our trip reminded me that detours can create moments we’ll cherish long after the paddle home.

Chasing Waterfalls in Northern Wisconsin

August 13, 2026August 15, 2026 / mariezhuikov / 15 Comments

Listen to me
Don’t go chasing waterfalls
Please stick to the rivers and the lakes that you’re used to
—Waterfalls, lyrics by TLC

My friends and I didn’t obey these song lyrics. Last month, we found new rivers, and best of all, new waterfalls while staying in a cabin near Brule, Wisconsin.

The first was Lost Creek Falls. The trailhead for the falls is near the town of Cornucopia. From there, it’s a fairly easy 1-1/2- mile hike to the falls and a small picnic area. The falls feature an eight-foot plunge with a few feet of cascades above and below it.

You can get close to the falls by walking through Lost Creek, which was shallow when we were there (we were able to rock hop across). A tree has recently fallen in front of the falls, so if you want good photos, you need to get past this visual barrier.

My friends and I enjoyed walking behind the falls, which is not common for waterfalls around Lake Superior. The spray refreshed us, and we were heartened to see how many families were out on the trail, showing this natural wonder to their children.

When we returned to our car, we took time to explore the small Town of Bell Cemetery across the road. It’s home to 23 graves from 1902-1915. They feature simple wooden crosses, and many are for infants.

Next was Siskiwit Falls, which is also near Cornucopia. A short walk from the parking lot brings you to this series of gentle ledges. The falls are known as a good “butt slide” area, but we did not partake in that particular activity.

On another day, we visited Mays Ledges. I guess they aren’t technically a waterfall, more like a series of cascades, but they were part of our trip, so I’m including them!

The ledges are in a nature reserve on the Brule River. The walk to them isn’t very long. It’s downhill with a series of stairs on the way there, which means uphill on the way back. Some of the ledges feature interesting circular holes, which I assume were formed when rocks were trapped in softer stone and whirled around during high water. This time, we took a dip. Beware of poison ivy along the trail.

The Brule River, which is famous for trout fishing and past visits by U.S. presidents, empties into Lake Superior. We meandered over to that site and spent an afternoon soaking up sunshine and Vitamin D on the sand spit.

*My friends at the mouth of the Brule River*

One waterfall we noticed a sign for but didn’t get to was Twin Falls near Port Wing. One of my friends went there later and said it was worth a visit.

On a different trip the next week, I revisited Amnicon Falls. They are in a state park outside of Superior, Wisconsin. I was last in the park during COVID and spring runoff. The falls were tamer this time, but still impressive.

Exploring these waterfalls and ledges reminded me how much beauty is tucked away in Northern Wisconsin. Each site offered its own unique charm, from tranquil cascades to lively sprays and quiet moments of reflection. If you’re ever in that area don’t forget to chase the promise of discovery that lies beyond the familiar.

Oulu!!

August 10, 2026 / mariezhuikov / 10 Comments

Although it may sound like a Finnish battle cry, the title of this post actually refers to a small town in northern Wisconsin (population 560). The town was named by Finnish immigrants after the fifth-largest city in Finland.

I meandered to Oulu late last month during a trip with some friends. The attraction that drew us was the Oulu Glass Gallery Studio. It’s run by Jim and Sue Vojacek, glass artists who are influenced by Lake Superior and the Bois Brule River, which runs nearby.

Their studio looks something like a geodesic mushroom. In winter, visitors can watch the glass-blowing process. In summer, you can tour the teapot garden, planted in memory of Sue’s mother, who collected the teapots. In all seasons, you can purchase unique glass art.

As we entered the studio, we were greeted by one of several calico cats that roam the property. Sue emerged from a back room and chatted with us as we perused the glass art. I ended up choosing a paperweight inspired by a Lake Superior wave and a small blue-and-yellow glass vase complete with a glass flower. Sue said that she and her husband made the vase and flower separately, but they went together so well, they made a match. I loved hearing the stories behind the art!

As we left, we toured the colorful teapot garden and met another one of the cats.

If you’re ever on Highway 2 going across northern Wisconsin, turn off at the Oulu Rock, and you’re in for a treat!

*The locally famous Oulu Rock. Image courtesy of the Oulu Cultural Center.*

Food for Thought

August 8, 2026 / mariezhuikov / 4 Comments

I’ve been too busy meandering around to visit other blogs or post on my own lately. As I process all that I’ve learned and keep meandering for another few weeks, here’s a “filler” post about food. On the label of this product (which shall remain nameless) note the “natural flavor with other natural flavor” description.

Russ and I found it funny. What do you think that could mean? Is one flavor more natural than another, or does the product contain doubly natural flavors? It’s a mystery wrapped in an enigma.

I hope you’re enjoying the height of summer!

France, Day 6: Colorful Honfleur

July 31, 2026August 1, 2026 / mariezhuikov / 10 Comments

The final full day of our Road Scholar trip took us from Bayeux to the town of Honfleur, which is where the Seine empties into the sea. It’s known for its all-wooden churches (no nails!), picturesque streets, and harbor.

As we walked the streets in the morning light, I could easily see why painters like Eugene Boudin and Monet were drawn here. The ancient buildings ooze with character, and the harbor provides wonderful reflections of the ships.

We visited one of the wooden churches, Sint-Catharina Kerk, and spent some time inside. Joan of Arc was also memorialized here with a statue.

After our walk, we visited the Musee Eugene Boudin, which is housed in a 19^th-century chapel with two modern extensions, offering views over Honfleur and the Seine. Boudin was the town’s most famous painter. Besides Boudin’s works, the museum houses other impressionists such as Monet and Jongkind.

On our way to the restaurant where we would share a farewell lunch with the group, we passed some cool statues – have you ever seen the partial statues that provide optical illusions? There was a series of those.

We also passed two men who sported fedoras and smoked hand-rolled cigarettes. They were setting up their hurdy-gurdy as a tourist attraction.

Near them on a harbor wall was a plaque that memorialized Samuel de Champlain. As a Great Lakes person, I took note! Lake Champlain in Vermont is named after him, and the plaque commemorated his departure point in Honfleur and his role in establishing “New France” in Quebec, Canada. Honfleur’s location on the Seine made it a key port for launching French voyages into the St. Lawrence and beyond.

The city also seemed home to many cats, who provided me with some photo opportunities.

I would have loved to have spent more time here, but alas, the time for our departure was nearing. At our farewell lunch, our group exchanged contact information, and we said our goodbyes. We met a lot of nice people in our group and plan to keep in touch with a few.

We were very happy with our experience and would definitely consider booking another Road Scholar trip in the future, especially if it’s in a country where we don’t know the language and would be hesitant to drive.

Not that Road Scholar had anything to do with this, but the weather during our tour was divine: sunshine and no rain. The first rain came in the evening after we had returned to Paris, where our group would catch flights home the next day.

One thing to know if you travel to France is that there’s a lack of public restrooms, especially in Paris. You either need to go into a cafe and buy something so you can use their facilities, or just saunter in and act like you belong there and use them. Even our tour bus didn’t have a bathroom!

I feel like perhaps it was a mistake that we left France. Immediately afterward, the country experienced heat waves that left at least 40 people dead, wildfires that devastated communities in the southwest part of the country, and France’s first incidence of Ebola. Would things have been different if we had stayed? I guess I’ll never know. 😊 But I feel for the country and hope the many trials end soon.

Reflecting on this journey, I am grateful for the unforgettable experiences, the friendships made, the chance to glimpse the country of my ancestors, and the beauty discovered each day. Though France faced great challenges after our departure, the memories and connections from our trip will remain with us.

As this chapter closes, I look forward to future travels and new adventures, carrying with me the spirit of discovery and appreciation that this journey inspired.

*Some macrons that we bought at the airport. Two are mysteriously missing.*

France, Day 5: If you Build it . . .

July 28, 2026July 28, 2026 / mariezhuikov / 16 Comments

*Mont St. Michel as seen through our bus window*

On this day, we traveled from our base in Bayeux to Mont St. Michel. This tiny tidal island, an UNESCO World Heritage Site, is home to the majestic St. Michel Monastery. As we drove through the Normandy countryside, I was struck by how it reminded me of the rich, pastoral borderlands of Scotland.

Due to the volume of tourists, everyone must take a crowded shuttle across the causeway to the island. Quaint shops and tiny inns line the narrow cobblestone streets that lead up to the monastery. Then come the steps. Our guide said there were 350 of them! A few of our group members with mobility issues stopped at this point, and I did not blame them.

*Saint Michel shines atop the monastery.*

Thankfully, Russ and I were able to continue. Under the watchful eye of a statue of St. Michel (which is reproduced in gold atop the monastery), we were given tablet computers and a headset for our tour.

St. Michel is considered a warrior angel, leading heavenly armies in the battle against Satan and his forces. Now, he is also considered the patron saint of police officers, paramedics, and the military.

*The view of the tidal flats from the top of the monastery.*

Legend has it that the archangel Michael appeared to Bishop Aubert of Avranches in 708 A.D.in a dream and instructed him to build a sanctuary on the rocky islet that would become Mont Saint Michel. The angel told him, “If you build it, they will come.”

Sound familiar? I was flabbergasted to learn this because it’s the same instrumental phrase used in the baseball movie (and book), Field of Dreams. The author plagiarized from history! I mean, I guess that’s okay, but I was surprised that it wasn’t an original phrase in the movie, and I’d never heard anyone make the connection to Mont St. Michel. But now you know!

Aubert initially ignored the dream to build a sanctuary, and, after a second angelic reminder was also ignored, this angered St. Michel, who burned a hole in Aubert’s skill with a finger of light. That made Aubert pay attention! He quickly erected a small chapel on the site, which served as a pilgrimage shrine. Because the island is accessible only at low tide, it was both a place of worship and a natural fortress against Viking raids.

During the French Revolution, the monastery was a prison. One interesting sight connected with that is a huge wooden wheel called The Great Wheel of the Abbey. Six prisoners (nicknamed squirrels) would walk inside it like a hamster wheel and power a crane that would be loaded with food, water, and other provisions for the monastery.

I also enjoyed seeing the scriptorium, which is the room where monks copied manuscripts. There’s also a cloister that was built in the 13^th century. The cloister is trapezoidal and consists of a garden and a covered gallery that runs around it. The garden is separated by an original colonnade, composed of 137 columns arranged in staggered rows and forming tripods, which support the vault and the roof of the cloister gallery.

The elements that make up the cloister were made with materials from the region, such as Caen stone, but also from more distant lands, such as Purbeck marble. The cloister allowed the monks to find themselves in a suspended space conducive to meditation, and thus to be closer to God, through the presence of its garden open to the sky. But what I really wanted to know was how they got all the soil up there to make the garden in the cloister courtyard!

Like in Versailles, armed guards were in evidence, although this time, instead of only being at the entrance, they walked among the crowds, giving us all the evil eye as if to say, “Don’t try any funny stuff!”

The walk down the monastery hill was much easier than the walk up. Along the way, we saw some seagull parents trying to protect their chick from passing tourists. The chick had wandered near the walkway, much to the parents’ distress. Although some passersby took photos of the chick, most stayed a respectful distance away. (I did not take a photo.)

*A house at the bottom of the hill on Mont St. Michel*

We caught a shuttle back to our bus and then returned to Bayeux. Dinner was on our own. We’d worked up an appetite. I had a scrumptious Mediterranean pizza (with anchovies, black olives, tomatoes and mozzarella) at Le Florentin restaurant, with cream puffs and ice cream for dessert.

The next day would be our last full day in France.

Coming up: Honfleur

Marie's Meanderings

Internet home for Marie Zhuikov: Blogger, Author, Poet, Photographer