The final full day of our Road Scholar trip took us from Bayeux to the town of Honfleur, which is where the Seine empties into the sea. It’s known for its all-wooden churches (no nails!), picturesque streets, and harbor.
As we walked the streets in the morning light, I could easily see why painters like Eugene Boudin and Monet were drawn here. The ancient buildings ooze with character, and the harbor provides wonderful reflections of the ships.
A harbor scene — one of my favorites!
We visited one of the wooden churches, Sint-Catharina Kerk, and spent some time inside. Joan of Arc was also memorialized here with a statue.
Sint-Catharina Kerk(on the left)
After our walk, we visited the Musee Eugene Boudin, which is housed in a 19th-century chapel with two modern extensions, offering views over Honfleur and the Seine. Boudin was the town’s most famous painter. Besides Boudin’s works, the museum houses other impressionists such as Monet and Jongkind.
On our way to the restaurant where we would share a farewell lunch with the group, we passed some cool statues – have you ever seen the partial statues that provide optical illusions? There was a series of those.
We also passed two men who sported fedoras and smoked hand-rolled cigarettes. They were setting up their hurdy-gurdy as a tourist attraction.
Near them on a harbor wall was a plaque that memorialized Samuel de Champlain. As a Great Lakes person, I took note! Lake Champlain in Vermont is named after him, and the plaque commemorated his departure point in Honfleur and his role in establishing “New France” in Quebec, Canada. Honfleur’s location on the Seine made it a key port for launching French voyages into the St. Lawrence and beyond.
The city also seemed home to many cats, who provided me with some photo opportunities.
A chimney cat
A window cat.
Another window cat!
I would have loved to have spent more time here, but alas, the time for our departure was nearing. At our farewell lunch, our group exchanged contact information, and we said our goodbyes. We met a lot of nice people in our group and plan to keep in touch with a few.
We were very happy with our experience and would definitely consider booking another Road Scholar trip in the future, especially if it’s in a country where we don’t know the language and would be hesitant to drive.
A handsome Honfleur pigeon
Not that Road Scholar had anything to do with this, but the weather during our tour was divine: sunshine and no rain. The first rain came in the evening after we had returned to Paris, where our group would catch flights home the next day.
One thing to know if you travel to France is that there’s a lack of public restrooms, especially in Paris. You either need to go into a cafe and buy something so you can use their facilities, or just saunter in and act like you belong there and use them. Even our tour bus didn’t have a bathroom!
I feel like perhaps it was a mistake that we left France. Immediately afterward, the country experienced heat waves that left at least 40 people dead, wildfires that devastated communities in the southwest part of the country, and France’s first incidence of Ebola. Would things have been different if we had stayed? I guess I’ll never know. 😊 But I feel for the country and hope the many trials end soon.
Reflecting on this journey, I am grateful for the unforgettable experiences, the friendships made, the chance to glimpse the country of my ancestors, and the beauty discovered each day. Though France faced great challenges after our departure, the memories and connections from our trip will remain with us.
As this chapter closes, I look forward to future travels and new adventures, carrying with me the spirit of discovery and appreciation that this journey inspired.
Some macrons that we bought at the airport. Two are mysteriously missing.
On this day, we traveled from our base in Bayeux to Mont St. Michel. This tiny tidal island, an UNESCO World Heritage Site, is home to the majestic St. Michel Monastery. As we drove through the Normandy countryside, I was struck by how it reminded me of the rich, pastoral borderlands of Scotland.
Due to the volume of tourists, everyone must take a crowded shuttle across the causeway to the island. Quaint shops and tiny inns line the narrow cobblestone streets that lead up to the monastery. Then come the steps. Our guide said there were 350 of them! A few of our group members with mobility issues stopped at this point, and I did not blame them.
Saint Michel shines atop the monastery.
Thankfully, Russ and I were able to continue. Under the watchful eye of a statue of St. Michel (which is reproduced in gold atop the monastery), we were given tablet computers and a headset for our tour.
St. Michel is considered a warrior angel, leading heavenly armies in the battle against Satan and his forces. Now, he is also considered the patron saint of police officers, paramedics, and the military.
The view of the tidal flats from the top of the monastery.
Legend has it that the archangel Michael appeared to Bishop Aubert of Avranches in 708 A.D.in a dream and instructed him to build a sanctuary on the rocky islet that would become Mont Saint Michel. The angel told him, “If you build it, they will come.”
Sound familiar? I was flabbergasted to learn this because it’s the same instrumental phrase used in the baseball movie (and book), Field of Dreams. The author plagiarized from history! I mean, I guess that’s okay, but I was surprised that it wasn’t an original phrase in the movie, and I’d never heard anyone make the connection to Mont St. Michel. But now you know!
Aubert initially ignored the dream to build a sanctuary, and, after a second angelic reminder was also ignored, this angered St. Michel, who burned a hole in Aubert’s skill with a finger of light. That made Aubert pay attention! He quickly erected a small chapel on the site, which served as a pilgrimage shrine. Because the island is accessible only at low tide, it was both a place of worship and a natural fortress against Viking raids.
The Great Wheel of the Abbey
During the French Revolution, the monastery was a prison. One interesting sight connected with that is a huge wooden wheel called The Great Wheel of the Abbey. Six prisoners (nicknamed squirrels) would walk inside it like a hamster wheel and power a crane that would be loaded with food, water, and other provisions for the monastery.
The Scriptoriumceiling
I also enjoyed seeing the scriptorium, which is the room where monks copied manuscripts. There’s also a cloister that was built in the 13th century. The cloister is trapezoidal and consists of a garden and a covered gallery that runs around it. The garden is separated by an original colonnade, composed of 137 columns arranged in staggered rows and forming tripods, which support the vault and the roof of the cloister gallery.
The elements that make up the cloister were made with materials from the region, such as Caen stone, but also from more distant lands, such as Purbeck marble. The cloister allowed the monks to find themselves in a suspended space conducive to meditation, and thus to be closer to God, through the presence of its garden open to the sky. But what I really wanted to know was how they got all the soil up there to make the garden in the cloister courtyard!
Mont St. Michel
Like in Versailles, armed guards were in evidence, although this time, instead of only being at the entrance, they walked among the crowds, giving us all the evil eye as if to say, “Don’t try any funny stuff!”
The walk down the monastery hill was much easier than the walk up. Along the way, we saw some seagull parents trying to protect their chick from passing tourists. The chick had wandered near the walkway, much to the parents’ distress. Although some passersby took photos of the chick, most stayed a respectful distance away. (I did not take a photo.)
A house at the bottom of the hill on Mont St. Michel
We caught a shuttle back to our bus and then returned to Bayeux. Dinner was on our own. We’d worked up an appetite. I had a scrumptious Mediterranean pizza (with anchovies, black olives, tomatoes and mozzarella) at Le Florentin restaurant, with cream puffs and ice cream for dessert.
The next day would be our last full day in France.
The next day of our Road Scholar trip took us from our base in Bayeux on a bus ride to the beaches of Normandy. The beaches used to be a vacation area, but due to WWII, are forever known as places of conflict and, ultimately, victory for the Allies.
Our first stop was a bluff above Omaha Beach. This is where most of the casualties occurred, earning it the nickname of bloody beach. We viewed the remnants of an artificial harbor known as Mulberry A. Our local guide explained that the floating breakwaters, pontoons, and piers for the harbor were secretly built over six months in England and then towed across the English Channel. The components were put into place to protect Allied supply ships from storms and enemy fire while allowing them to dock and unload cargo close to the shore.
Part of the artificial harbor offshore at Omaha Beach.
Mulberry A was built soon after the June 6, 1944, D-Day landings. However, a violent storm on June 19–22, 1944, damaged the four-mile-long harbor severely, forcing the Allied forces to rely on open-beach landings on Omaha Beach for the rest of the campaign. Another artificial harbor was built at Gold Beach (Mulberry B), and it lasted longer.
There really wasn’t that much left of the harbor – just thin broken lines of concrete offshore. Although the view may have been unimpressive, the thought of all the effort and planning that went into constructing them was impactful.
The American Cemetery was our next stop. More than 9,000 soldiers are buried on immaculate grounds. We walked the grounds and visited another bluff that overlooks Omaha Beach. As we gazed at the now-peaceful scene, it was hard to imagine the violence that occurred on D-Day.
Our group then gathered around the “Spirit of American Youth” statue for a ceremony. One of our tour members, David, did the honors of laying a bouquet of flowers at the base of the statue. David is a U.S. Army veteran. During WWII, his father was stationed in Scotland in the Navy. He was part of a highly classified small team of men who worked on a top-secret project that involved developing reconnaissance film used in preparation for D-Day. David said he was thrilled and humbled to be part of the ceremony and to celebrate his father’s contribution.
David at the American D-Day Cemetery ceremony.
I don’t have any direct connection to D-Day, but as the bugle call of Taps played, even I teared up by the end. David’s wife Robin videoed the ceremony (except for the Taps part). You can watch it on YouTube. (Link provided with permission.)
One thing to note if you visit, is that no eating is allowed in the cemetery. Somehow, I missed that memo. I took out a granola bar because I was getting hangry. One of the cemetery staff members saw me, got a horrified look on her face, and indicated in French that I should put my granola bar away.
A view of Omaha Beach from the bluff.
Omaha Beach was next on our agenda. We were able to walk the sands. I took off my shoes and felt the cool ocean while our guide explained that the beach has five ravines that allow access past the bluffs to the interior. These were the focus of the troops on D-Day. The bluffs above the beach and the ravines were full of machine gun and mortar nests.
Imagine being an inexperienced soldier dropped onto a beach under enemy fire and having to climb the bluffs. More than 4,000 soldiers were killed and wounded on D-Day, many of whom drowned after being hit. Any beachy enjoyment I felt faded as our guide described the happenings of that fateful day.
A rock formation at Pointe du Hoc.
Next, we visited Pointe du Hoc, which features a German “pillbox” observation bunker that we could go inside. These concrete guard houses made of reinforced concrete were home to several soldiers. The narrow openings (loopholes) toward the sea allowed the soldiers to fire on the enemy. The path to the pillbox was pocked by several deep craters where bombs impacted.
The view from inside the German observation bunker.
After all the heaviness, I guess it was time for a drink! Our next stop was Chateau d’Englesqueville to sample Normandy’s renowned calvados apple brandy and regional cheeses. But first, owner Bernard Lebrec showed us his farm’s monument, which honors American soldiers who fought in Normandy during WWII. It’s thought to be the first erected in France.
The 14th century tower at Chateau d’Englesqueville.
Bernard (with cider stains on his shirt) explained that Germans took over the farm at first, but after D-Day, Americans (the 147th Combat Battalion) used the farm as their headquarters and built an airfield across the way. The house (chateau) was built in the 17th Century, and the farm buildings still sport a tower from the 14th Century.
Bernard tells us about calvados while his daughter Marie watches.
The charming Bernard then invited us inside for a tasting. His daughter Marie helped (an easy name for me to remember), along with their two English cream retrievers. The calvados was 84 proof – really strong! It tasted like French moonshine to me. I preferred the aperitif, which was milder, and bought a small bottle to bring home. We also bought some of their apple jellies: plain, vanilla, and cinnamon. By now, the aperitif is long gone, but we’re still working on the jellies.
Besides calvados, Normandy is known for flax, dairy, lace, wheat, artichokes, apples, pears, and seafood. It’s like the Wisconsin of France.
The chateau also offers a restaurant run by Bernard’s nephew. Restaurant L’Ephemere was closed when we visited, but looked like a nice place. Travel author Rick Steves says, it’s a “laid-back, all outdoors, tres French, well-run café-restaurant serving delicious meals, salads, or just drinks with a smile.”
Cathedral of Our Lady of Bayeux
Our bus took us back to Bayeux, where we had time to meander around the town. We walked to the Cathedral of Our Lady of Bayeux, which was consecrated on July 14, 1077, in the presence of William the Conqueror, making it a site of great historical importance. It is believed that the famous Bayeux Tapestry, which depicts the Norman Conquest of England, was originally housed in the cathedral. The tapestry was later moved to a nearby museum. We couldn’t see it, however, because the museum is undergoing renovations and the tapestry has been temporarily relocated to England.
Russ by the Bayeux Liberty Tree, which was planted in 1797.
Behind the cathedral stands a HUGE “Liberty Tree.” These trees were planted across France after the Revolution to celebrate the end of the monarchy. The scale and age of the Plane Tree (species) was difficult to comprehend. (See the photo above with a teeny tiny Russ beside the tree.)
The town is known for its creperies. The most popular one (Le Moulin de la Galette) was booked solid during our stay, so we could not eat there. But we walked past it, and it was hopping! The restaurant is housed in a charming former oil and flour mill along the Aure River that has been transformed. An outdoor terrace allows guests to savor their meals while enjoying picturesque views of the river and historic buildings in Old Bayeux.
We kept following the river on a paved trail that led to a boardwalk across a wetland. The boardwalk offered a great view of the cathedral, and I took a few photos.
The Bayeux cathedral as seen from the river boardwalk.
Our Plan B for a crepe dinner was Au Louis d’Or. On the sidewalk, we dined all frescos for dinner on galettes (savory crepes made from buckwheat) with crepes for dessert. With camembert cheese, apples, and sausage, my galette was pure Normandy. My dessert crepe was filled with chestnut cream. Both were outstanding, and the price was very reasonable.
My Normandy galette
Whew! And so, Day 4 of 6 of our tour came to a close. We really enjoyed being in a smaller French town after the crowds of Paris. I would love to revisit Bayeux someday, perhaps once the tapestry returns. I’m not much for following military history, but I gained a greater appreciation for the machinations of WWII and the sacrifices of the soldiers after seeing the D-Day beaches and cemetery.
Next Up: Mont St. Michel and another great dinner in Bayeux
I fell asleep with a head full of grandiose images of Versailles. In the morning those images faded, and I awoke with a mission: to find and eat a genuine Parisian chocolate croissant. Before our trip, many people asked what I was looking forward to most in France. I didn’t answer with a standard reply like the Eiffel Tower or Versailles. For me, it was eating a chocolate croissant. Yes, that’s all it takes to make me happy.
A picture of a picture on a sign that describes a crookie.
You see, in the U.S., I can’t eat anything made with wheat (or corn). From past travels, I know I have good luck eating wheat in Russia and the U.K. Today was the day I put France (and my digestive system) to the test.
A bakery was just around the corner from our hotel, so I hotfooted it over there and made my purchase. I was almost sidetracked by a new type of croissant called a “crookie” that’s all the rage, but I stuck with classic chocolate. (A crookie is a combo croissant and chocolate chip cookie.)
I was not disappointed! The croissant was so crunchy, buttery, and rich with chocolate. If I had to die in Paris now, I could die happy.
My breakfast chocolate croissant
I’m also happy to say that my digestive system suffered no ill effects from the wheat, so I was free to eat like a normal person for the rest of the trip! I’ve read articles about the phenomenon of U.S. tourists in Europe who can eat wheat when they can’t at home. It may be because the wheat used in Europe contains less gluten than U.S. wheat. It could also be because fewer pesticides are used on the crop in Europe.
The Arc de Triomphe as seen through a moving bus window
Powered by croissant fuel, I rejoined Russ and the tour group for a bus ride to our next stop, which was the town of Giverny – site of Monet’s home and gardens. On our way out of Paris, we passed the impressive Arc de Triomphe.
Giverny was more rural than I expected, such a charming village. A long line of tourists were waiting to enter. We had to walk through them to get to the group entrance beyond. I made it through the gauntlet, but others farther back in our group line weren’t so lucky. They said an angry German woman stuck out her arm and wouldn’t let them pass. She must have thought they were cutting the line. Somehow, they convinced her to let them pass. They rejoined our group, shaken by the rudeness, and in a bit of disbelief.
Monet’s pond
But hopefully, the peace of Monet’s gardens and ponds soothed them. In addition to being an artist, Monet was quite the botanist and civil engineer. To create his ponds, he diverted the flow of a small creek. The ponds are the site of his famous waterlily paintings, which he created in his later years when his eyes were clouded by cataracts.
Another shot ofMonet’s pond
Like in Versailles, taking a photo without a ton of people in it was challenging, but I managed a few. Russ and I sat on a bench for a while to soak up the feel of the place. That was also a challenge with a parade of people walking past, but we were partly successful.
Monet’s home
Then the path took us into his gardens, and next, to Monet’s pink and green house. I was surprised by all the paintings in the home, but I guess I shouldn’t have been. They were mainly by other artists who were Monet’s friends, but some were by Monet. I was also surprised by all the Japanese prints on the walls. Our guide said that Monet never went to Japan but considered the prints an investment. The home’s kitchen and dining room were quite picturesque.
Monet’s dining room
Then we were back on the bus, traveling to Rouen, which is known for its cathedral, half-timbered houses, and as the place where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake.
The spot where Joan of Arc was burned bears a stone plaque and is near a large church built with a fish architectural theme (the roof looks like fish scales, etc.) We ate lunch not far from there, and then our group walked to the impressive Romanesque/Gothic-style cathedral, which Monet painted in a famous series to capture how light played on the outside.
Looking up at the Notre Dame Rouen
The inside of the Notre Dame Rouen cathedral was more interesting to me than the outside because it contained the tomb of Rollo, the First Duke of Normandy, and his son, William Longsword. If you’ve been following this blog for a while, you may recall the post about my visit to Maine and the history of my Herring ancestors.
Rollo’s tomb
Rollo was a Viking raider who was given the land in Normandy by the French king so that he would cease his raider ways. Family lore says my ancestor was commander of Rollo’s Navy and was given the title of Viscount. In research I’ve done, I’ve learned that Rollo usually only gave titles like that to relatives (nepotism at its best!), so there’s a good chance we’re related to him.
I made a beeline for his tomb, which carries an inscription that translates to, “He toiled so hard that he died.” In life, Rollo had another nickname: The Walker. Legend has it he was too tall and massive for a horse to carry, so he had to walk everywhere. While historians have debated whether this was an exaggeration, the nickname became part of his enduring legend, emphasizing his imposing stature and intimidating presence on the battlefield. Rollo’s tomb was large but certainly didn’t seem massive.
Walking back to our bus, we saw many properties with bullet holes remaining from WWII activities in Rouen. This included the local police station. The French are sensitive to accusations that they didn’t fight back against the German invasion, but this proves that in Rouen, they did.
A peaceful scene in Bayeux
Another bus ride took us to the town of Bayeux, which was to be our base for the next few days. After supper, we had free time. Russ and I were able to meander around. We found a city park with a fountain in the middle that depicts the local woman who married Rollo. Her name was Poppa.
Poppa’s fountain in Bayeux. She was Rollo’s wife.
Reflecting on the day, I’m struck by how each experience—from the simple pleasure of a perfect croissant to the awe of Monet’s gardens and the storied streets of Rouen—wove together into a delightful tapestry. These moments, both grand and small, capture the magic of travel: unexpected connections, new tastes, and a deeper sense of history coming alive. France continued to surprise me at every turn, and I was looking forward to what tomorrow would bring.
Next up: The D-Day Beaches of Normandy, Apple Brandy, and Bayeux
The Orangery parterre at Versailles. It’s like an outdoor greenhouse.
On a bright, warm morning, we boarded a chartered bus to the Palace of Versailles during our Road Scholar tour. We were met there by our local guide, Aurora, and armed guards. I’m not sure whether there are always armed guards at the Versailles entrance, but it might have had something to do with a U.S. president visiting the palace a few days later.
In the 1600s, Versailles was a hunting lodge for the royal family until Louie the 14th decided to turn it into a palace with gardens and fountains. Three generations of royalty lived there until the French Revolution in 1789. Louie the 14th fancied himself a “Sun King”—the center of the kingdom and universe. As such, images of the sun decorated the palace gates and many other parts of the palace.
The impressive gates at Versailles.
The Sun King didn’t want any shade in the front courtyard, so tourists lining up for tickets are forced to bake while they wait to enter. We had group tickets, which involved a shorter line, but we still got a good feel for the heat of the former king’s symbol. The gilded main gate and fences around the courtyard were impressive.
We toured the gardens first. The fountains weren’t on while we were there, but they were still impressive, along with the grand canal. Due to time constraints, we couldn’t see any of the side gardens, which was disappointing.
The Latona Fountain, which features frogs and lizards, and the Grand Canal.
Many years ago, I toured the Russian Summer Palace, Peterhof, outside St. Petersburg. The design was inspired by Versailles. We spent many hours in the gardens and palace there. The French won’t like me saying this: although Versailles is impressive, I think the Russians went a step above. Peterhof was truly spectacular.
The ceiling of the Hercules Room.
Once inside the palace, we toured the Hercules Drawing Room. With its marble walls and ornately painted ceiling, this is where parties were held. Next was the Royal Chapel where Louis the 16th married Marie Antoinette. Following that, we went to the King’s Apartments, where we saw the king’s bed. Between the king’s and queen’s apartments is the famous Hall of Mirrors. I’ve watched movies about Marie Antoinette, and the 250-foot hall is as impressive in real life as it is on screen. The Queen’s Apartments hold a bust of Marie Antoinette, and her bed. Our tour ended outside in the Royal Courtyard, which also lacks trees.
The Hall of Mirrors
The chance to see Versailles was a highlight of our tour, but so many other tourists jostling us and fighting for good photos marred the experience. You’ll notice that many of my photos in this post are of the upper parts of rooms. That’s because the lower levels are filled to capacity with throngs of tourists (like myself!) The French government is trying to preserve key tourist sites by introducing quotas, but it seems like more restrictive ones are needed at Versailles.
A sphinx and cupid sculpture, Versailles
We parted with guide Aurora and our bus took us back to Paris, where we visited the Museum d’Orsay. The huge building used to be a railway station but now houses collections of paintings, sculptures, and decorative objects. The works cover 1848-1914 and include artists such as Renoir, Van Gogh, and Monet.
Luncheon of the Boating Party painting by Renoir. I also saw it in Minneapolis years ago. Felt like I was meeting an old friend!
The museum was also crowded, but not quite as much as Versailles. I found that people-watching was almost as captivating as the artwork. Instagrammers dressed to the nines vied for the best selfies next to famous paintings or sculptures. One woman couldn’t get the selfie she wanted and stood in front of Van Gogh’s self-portrait, making ugly faces to show her displeasure.
Dinner was on our own. Russ and I made a reservation at a restaurant a short walk away, which was one of Ernest Hemingway’s hangouts. Brasserie Lipp is a Paris institution that offers traditional French cuisine. Our waiter told us they haven’t changed how they operate since the 1920s.
Brasserie Lipp, Hemingway hangout
If you go, though, please note that proper attire is required. We missed that info when we made our reservation. Once we arrived, we were met by a sign that said men cannot wear shorts into the restaurant. Guess what Russ was wearing? We pled our case to a waiter. Russ must have looked respectable enough because they let him in. 😊
I ordered a St. Germain spritz, smoked (Scottish) salmon and blinis. (Blinis are like small crepes.) For dessert, we split a rhum baba, which is a rum-soaked cake. It was all very good! Our waiter was excellent, resupplying my blinis before I could even ask, and seeming to read my mind in general. I’ve never had that experience at a restaurant before. (I felt like I was in an episode of The Bear!)
As we ate, I could imagine Hemingway and his friends looking at the same tiles on the walls and enjoying the wonderful food. In his 1964 memoir A Moveable Feast, Hemingway fondly recalled visiting the brasserie, where he would order a cold liter of beer and warm potato salad, immersing himself in the lively atmosphere of the Left Bank.
After supper, we braved the subway by ourselves and made it back to our hotel with no problems. I was very proud of us!
The Sacre Couer Basilica and part of a merry-go-round in Montmartre, Paris
Russ and I meandered across the ocean to France for a six-day tour through Road Scholar. In case you missed the explanation in my previous post, Road Scholar is a nonprofit travel organization for older adults. We learned about the organization from our parents, who took trips when it used to be called Elderhostel. This was our first trip with them, and it was a great experience!
We decided to go with a tour company instead of making arrangements ourselves since this was a location with language and cultural differences, crazy traffic, and crowds. Besides, we needed a break from planning.
After arriving in Paris, we met our tour guide, Christine, at the airport. She was from England but now lives in France. She had arranged for a van driver to take us and another couple on the tour to our hotel, which was in the 9th District (Arrondissement). We had time to unpack before meeting the others in our group of sixteen in the lobby for orientation. Everyone was from the U.S. There were a couple of single people and one couple who were dating. The others were all related in some way, either through marriage or blood.
Other than dinner at a restaurant a short walk away, that was it for this partial day, so I’m not counting it. Our next full day began at a civilized time to help with our jet lag, which was much appreciated. After breakfast, which featured crème brulee (we’re definitely not in Minnesota anymore), we were off!
St. Denis and his headin the Notre Dame de MontmartreCathedral.
With the help of our Paris guide, Aurora, we navigated the Paris Metro (subway) to travel to Montmartre, the historic neighborhood made famous by past artists like Renoir and Picasso. It continues to be popular with artists and writers today. In Roman times, it was called the Mount of Mars. Temples to Mars and Mercury were built on the hill. The Christian era gave the neighborhood the name it has today, which translates to “Mount of the Martyrs, when Saint Denis, the first bishop of Paris, was martyred there around 250 AD.
According to legend, he was beheaded in front of the temple of Mars, then carried his head six kilometers to the site of the Basilica of Saint-Denis, where he was buried. A chapel called the Martyrium (“chapel of martyrs”) was built nearby, and the neighborhood’s name came to reflect its role as a site of Christian martyrdom.
We did not visit St. Denis’ basilica, but we did see two others there. One was the Sacre Coeur, which is perched atop the hill. To see the great views of Paris from this location, visitors must either walk up 400 steps or take a funicular (incline tram) to the top. While some in our group walked up the stairs, most opted for the funicular. Russ and I rode it just for the novelty.
The line was long, however. Our intrepid guide, Aurora, gained permission from the tram operator for our group to move up in line, although she must have played a medical card because she asked a couple of our members to exaggerate their disabilities as we walked to the front of the line. 😊 (One man in our group had a recent knee replacement; another had had a stroke and walked with a tilted limp, although both kept pace with the group admirably the rest of the time, even so.) It worked. The crowd parted for us like the proverbial Red Sea.
View of Paris from the Montmartre neighborhood
At the top, we enjoyed the view of Paris and our first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower. A short walk took us to Notre Dame de Montmarte, which is the oldest church in Paris. Aurora told us a story about how it was saved by the artists, most of whom weren’t religious, because they realized the structure’s historical significance. We toured the interior, where I noticed a statue of a man carrying his head, which could only have been good old St. Denis.
One thing I figured out before our trip is that there are A LOT of cathedrals in France named Notre Dame. The name isn’t reserved just for THE Notre Dame Cathedral. It translates to the Virgin Mary, and she’s a big thing in France, so there are many cathedrals named for her.
Aurora, our wonderful Paris and Versailles guide
As we walked through the cobblestone side streets, Auora explained that for centuries, gypsum was mined from the hill, giving rise to the “plaster of Paris” industry.
After some free time to shop, we walked back down the hill and took the subway to the heart of Paris, or the Île de la Cite, the island where Paris was first founded in the Iron Age by a Celtic tribe.
Norte Dame Cathedral
There, we saw THE Notre Dame Cathedral. It’s still undergoing repairs from the fire that damaged it in 2019, but the front looked great. Statues of many kings line the walls of the outside. Aurora told us that many of the statues were beheaded during the French Revolution when the monarchy fell out of favor. The heads were repaired in the 1840s. The cathedral houses holy relics, including the crown of thorns and pieces of the cross. We had the option to go inside, but the line was so long, and we were hungry, so we opted to eat lunch nearby instead.
Sainte-ChapelleCathedral
Our next stop on the Île de la Cite was Sainte-Chapelle, which offers an excellent example of Gothic architecture. Aurora told us it only took 6-8 years to build, which is amazing given its ornateness. King Louis IX wanted it to house the religious relics he acquired from the holy land at great cost (half the country’s GNP) – the same relics that are now in Notre Dame. He acquired them to elevate Paris and France’s status as a center of Christianity in medieval Europe.
Sainte-Chapelle has upper and lower chapels. Aurora said that 70 percent of the stained glass in the upper chapel is original. The windows depict bible stories and the king’s coronation. Being surrounded by the slender columns of glass made me feel like I was in a large jewelry box. Of all the cathedrals we saw on this trip, Sainte-Chappelle was the most impressive.
Next on our agenda was a boat tour of the Seine River. On the way, we passed the Eiffel Tower, which we were excited to see. I never realized that it is painted brown! (I thought it was black.) Although before our trip we had wanted to go to the top of the tower, once we were in Paris, it didn’t seem as important, so we did not do that typical tourist experience.
During our boat ride, I was impressed by the number of people hanging out along the river. Parisians (and tourists, I suppose) really like the Seine! That was good to see. As the tour progressed, we passed the Golden Flame. Originally built in 1989 as The Flame of Liberty, a symbol of friendship between France and America, after Diana Princess of Wales’ fatal car crash in the tunnel beneath it, the monument became a de facto shrine to her.
People hanging out along the Seine
Later, we drove through that same tunnel. I was surprised by how short it was. But I guess if conditions are right (or wrong), tragedy can happen anywhere. I can still remember arriving home after a week in the wilderness and hearing about her death on television. We were about the same age and in similar places in life emotionally, so I took her death hard. Although the Golden Flame isn’t officially her shrine, I’m glad she’s being remembered anyway.
After the boat ride, a private bus took us back to our hotel. Dinner was on our own. Since we were in France, you’d think we’d opt for French food. But we had French food the night before, so we chose a Mediterranean restaurant across the street called Madonna. An excellent choice! Seated alfresco, I had sea bream (a whole fish) that was baked in a salt crust with anise, and an eggplant dish on the side. I have cooked fish this way at home and had never seen it on a restaurant menu before, so I was excited to try it. What I didn’t know was that our waiter would fillet the fish before our eyes. He freed it from its salty crust, cut it, and deboned it. You’d think the fish would be salty, but that’s not the case. Only a bit of salt slowly infuses into the fish as it cooks. The result was moist and wonderful.
My memorable tirimisu
I also made our waiter work his magic for dessert. I ordered the tiramisu, which is prepared at the table. Two rum-soaked ladyfinger cookies arrived on a plate. He poured espresso over them, then topped them with heaps of whipped cream. A sprinkle of cocoa completed the dish. Somehow, it tasted better after having watched the process.
Looking back on our first full day in France, I am struck by the blend of history, beauty, and small delights that set the tone for our trip. From the soaring cathedrals and storied streets of Paris to the pleasures of fine cuisine, every moment offered a fresh perspective on this remarkable city. As we settled in for the night, full of good food and new experiences, we were already looking forward to the adventures still to come. France had welcomed us with open arms, and our journey was off to an unforgettable start.
The contract is signed, so it should be safe to let you know about this travel opportunity: I have a gig lined up this August to lead two trips for the Road Scholar Program along Lake Superior. I learned about the job from an email forwarded by a friend who knows about my outdoorsy and traveling nature.
Road Scholar is a nonprofit travel organization designed to inspire older adults to learn, discover and travel. Their learning adventures “engage expert instructors, provide extraordinary access, and stimulate discourse and friendship among people for whom learning is the journey of a lifetime.”
These Lake Superior trips are based in Superior, Wisconsin. Travelers will learn about the history of the Twin Ports (Superior and Duluth) and enjoy field trips to historical sites and presentations by local Indigenous elders and historians. Experience hands-on learning, explore the aquatic creatures of the Brule River State Forest and surrounding natural wonders through canoeing and hiking.
There are a few spots left for the two trips I’m leading in August. If you’re over 50, have $2,000 lying around, and want to spend six days meandering with me, consider signing up! It’s rated as a vigorous trip, so you’d need to be in shape. You can learn more at this link: A Superior Exploration: Lake Superior’s History & Ecology. [UPDATE: The 2026 trips are all sold out now!]
I can’t wait to share my love of Lake Superior with fellow travelers.
Big Manitou Falls, Pattison State Park. Note the tiny people on the overlook platform in the upper left.
Last weekend, admission to Wisconsin State Parks was free. Russ and I took advantage of this annual event to visit a park that’s only 22 miles from our house. As you, dear astute readers, can tell from the title of this post, Pattison State Park is home to the state’s tallest waterfall. The Black River falls 165 feet down a basalt cliff called Big Manitou Falls. A smaller waterfall, Little Manitou Falls, is also in the park, farther downriver.
The swimming beach at Pattison State Park.
Martin Pattison, a lumber baron who had a logging camp on the Black River, donated 660 acres of the 1,400-acre park to the state. If you’ve ever toured Fairlawn Mansion in Superior, Wisconsin, that was his house. In 1917, Pattison learned of plans to build a hydroelectric dam on the river, which would have destroyed the falls. With his wife’s encouragement, he secretly purchased all the land surrounding the falls to block development, and Pattison Park was formed in 1920.
According to the park newspaper, Patterson saved the falls because he felt a connection to them. “In being able to grant this site to the public, I have accomplished one of my chief ambitions. For years, I have spent much time amid the surrounding of the falls and have received so much enjoyment there that it gradually became part of my life,” he said.
On our trip, Russ and I left Duluth, Minnesota, which was shrouded in fog with temps in the 50s, and mist rising off the harbor. We journeyed to inland Wisconsin, with temps in the 70s. We parked in the main lot and took a short hike on a paved trail past the swimming beach on Interfalls Lake, then through a tunnel that runs under the road. Of course, we had to make noises in the tunnel to test the echo. 😊
The tunnel to the Big Manitou Falls Trail.
A small bridge took us across the river. From there, it was a short walk to an overlook where we could see the impressive power of the water flowing over the top of the falls. Another short walk (part of which was along the road and past the Big Manitou Falls parking lot) took us to several overlooks of the falls. Wild and rugged, the falls are the antithesis of the farmland and village we passed on our drive to the park.
We thought that we might get a good view of the falls from the riverbed, so we took the Big Manitou Falls Trail a half mile down to the river, but we were mistaken. We “only” saw the river. But if you like rivers, it’s worth it!
The view from the top of the falls.
Then came the half-mile hike back UP to the top of the falls. The trail is rated moderate to difficult due to the incline, but most of it was wide enough for two people to walk beside each other and was fairly level.
We walked back to the bridge and hiked along the other side of the river to two overlooks. The last overlook is not for the faint of heart! A wooden platform perched on the hillside makes you feel like you’re hanging on the edge of the cliff (because you are). But the view of the falls and the river gorge is spectacular.
The park features several other longer hiking trails, a campground, picnic area, and a backpacking camping area.
During our trip, I marveled that I’d never been to the park, especially since it’s so close to Duluth. After arriving back home, I checked with my older brother, and he assured me that I visited the park several times as a child.
I have no memory of those visits. Perhaps I was too young? In any event, I’m glad I rediscovered this gem of a park. It offers a blend of natural beauty, history, and adventure that makes it worth the visit. Whether you’re drawn by the thunderous falls, the hiking trails, or simply the peaceful setting, there’s something here for everyone to enjoy. I felt grateful for the chance to experience such a remarkable place—and am eager to return for more memories in years to come.
If you’re ever in northwestern Wisconsin, be sure to check out Pattison State Park!
My story, which originally came from this blog, was recently published in a local magazine called Northern Wilds. The story is about “That Time I Lost a Canoe in the Boundary Waters.” The magazine is on local (northern MN) newsstands now, but if you’re not from around here, you can read the original story here. This story, which took place in 2003 with my BFF Sharon and her children (and mine), also appeared in my blog-memoir book, Meander North. The Wilderness teaches me a lesson in it.
The Northern Wilds editor has been gracious enough to agree to publish some of my blog posts in her magazine when she needs stories. In this June issue, I was also interviewed by writer Victoria Smith for her story about, “Camping with Canine Friends.” You’ll see photos of my dearly departed goldendoodle, Buddy, and tips about how to successfully camp with your dog.
In case you’re wondering, I still miss my Buddy greatly, but I’m not ready to get another dog. I have too much meandering left to do, and that is easier without having to pay kennel fees for the dog left behind. Perhaps once I/we curtail our traveling, we’ll be open to loving another pet.
The Superior ship canal and Wisconsin Point lighthouse.
Russ and I visited a windswept peninsula near Superior, Wisconsin, last weekend. We wanted to check on how the prescribed burn area was rejuvenating after the burn I helped with last fall. As we approached Wisconsin Point, the steady roar of Lake Superior on one side and the more muted lap of Allouez Bay on the other created a backdrop of sound. Once, the Ojibwe lived there, but now the point is mainly a recreational area. It’s known for its towering pine forest and the distant flash of its lighthouse.
The prescribed burn area on Wisconsin Point.
In the burn area, the air still held a faint, smoky tang, but plants seemed to be coming back well, even with our chilly spring. Bright green grass sprouted bravely through ashen soil, and I ran my fingers over the bark at the base of some trees, rough and blackened but still sturdy. The large trees seemed little worse for wear—did you know that the rugged bark of red pines is fire-resistant? The trees need fire to regenerate, so they have adapted to it. That’s one reason for the prescribed burn: to encourage red pine regeneration. The point’s white pines, their needles soft and fragrant, are doing fine, but the red pines remain sparse. On our walk, we spotted an eagle’s nest, a massive tangle of sticks perched high above, and heard the sharp calls of the birds echoing through the canopy.
Bear Creek Trail, Wisconsin Point
Wisconsin Point also sports a relatively new nonmotorized trail that I haven’t had a chance to hike yet. The Bear Creek Trail begins near Hwy 53 and parallels Moccasin Mike Road to Wisconsin Point. Once on the point, it crosses Wisconsin Point Road, enters a wooded upland, and then a marsh for a total of 2.3 miles. It ends at the first parking lot on the point and sports a gravel surface, wooden bridges, and an impressive floating boardwalk over the marsh. Along the way, a pagoda provides a scenic view of the lake and the bay. Although the weather was a blustery 45 degrees, the forest provided shelter and warmth.
The pagoda on Bear Creek Trail
As we crossed the marsh, we noticed a beaver lodge and heard a Sora waterbird call. Soras are also known as Carolina Crakes. They’re brown and white, about the size of a chicken, but with longer legs perfect for wading in the shallows. Although the birds are common throughout the U.S., they are relatively rare in Wisconsin because they require large and healthy wetlands for habitat, and we all know what humans like to do to wetlands. (Drain them!)
A wetland along the Beaver Creek Trail, complete with beaver lodge.
Our visit to Wisconsin Point was both invigorating and enlightening. Seeing the resilience of the landscape, from the recovering burn area to the thriving wildlife, was a reminder of nature’s ability to adapt and flourish. The combination of ecological restoration, immersive natural experiences, and unique wildlife sightings makes Wisconsin Point a destination delights the senses and invites return in every season.
Marie's Meanderings 