“Doing” Madeline Island in an Hour – a Photo Story

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Say you have an awful terrible job like mine (smile) that requires travel to a picturesque lakeside (as in Lake Superior) town (as in Bayfield, Wis.) for a meeting. Let’s say that after the Bayfield meeting your coworker has another meeting that requires travel by car ferry to a nearby island. He invites you to use the car while he’s in his meeting so you can tool around the island and take scenic photos for the various publications produced by your organization.

Bayfield, Wis.

Bayfield, Wis.

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Let’s say you only have an hour to spend on the island before your coworker’s meeting is done and you have to ferry back to the mainland. Where would you go on the island? Why, you would go where the ferry worker recommends, that’s where!

I recently meandered over to Madeline Island on the south shore of Lake Superior under such circumstances. Without prompting, the lady selling ferry tickets pointed to a sand spit in Big Bay State Park on a map and said, “If I was going to Madeline Island today, that’s where I’d head.”

I recently meandered over to Madeline Island on the south shore of Lake Superior under such circumstances. Without prompting, the lady selling ferry tickets pointed to a sand spit in Big Bay State Park on a map and said, “If I was going to Madeline Island today, that’s where I’d head.”

I figured she knew what she was talking about. While my coworker was in his meeting in the quaint town of LaPointe on the island, I drove to the park which, like any good cheap hotel, included an option to just pay for an hour. I located the trail to the sandspit and enjoyed a short hike through a verdant ferny forest...

I figured she knew what she was talking about. While my coworker was in his meeting in the quaint town of LaPointe on the island, I drove to the park which, like any good cheap hotel, included an option to just pay for an hour. I located the trail to the sandspit and enjoyed a short hike through a verdant ferny forest…

...that gave way to a grove of white pines just before the beach.

…that gave way to a grove of white pines just before the beach.

Dozens of swimmers enjoyed the cool waters of Lake Superior.

Dozens of swimmers enjoyed the cool waters of Lake Superior.

 I had just enough time to take off my sandals and wade in.

I had just enough time to take off my sandals and wade in.

Then I departed and looked for a scenic overlook I noticed near the park entrance. The view was all right, but the beach was better.

Then I departed and looked for a scenic overlook I noticed near the park entrance. The view was all right, but the beach was better.

By now, I had fifteen minutes left to drive back to LaPointe. Once in town, I had time to snap photos of a few local landmarks before rejoining my coworker and heading for the ferry back to Bayfield.

By now, I had fifteen minutes left to drive back to LaPointe. Once in town, I had time to snap photos of a few local landmarks before rejoining my coworker and heading for the ferry back to Bayfield.

I think I’m in love. Seriously. I will return someday when I have enough time to do Madeline Island justice. Much more awaits.

I think I’m in love. Seriously. I will return someday when I have enough time to do Madeline Island justice. Much more awaits.

Jersey Shore Sojourn

Did you know that the United States has a national historic elephant landmark? It's in New Jersey, and her name is Lucy.

Did you know that the United States has a national historic elephant landmark? It’s in New Jersey, and her name is Lucy.

My impression of New Jersey turned inside out last week when I traveled there. Before that, my main experience with the state was gained through several extended stays in the Newark Airport (one overnight on a hard plastic chair) and from brief, accidental, distasteful viewings of the “Jersey Shore” TV show.

What I learned:

Hydrangeas are my new favorite flower. Two varieties are pictured here.

Hydrangeas are my new favorite flower. Two varieties are pictured here.

  • New Jersey is not an industry-strewn state. Nature abounds in the pine barrens, designated natural areas, wildlife sanctuaries, and even in the tangle of forest along the highway.
  • Hydrangeas are obviously New Jersey residents’ favorite flowers.
  • It can get hot there! My Minnesota blood was thinned by the 80- to 90-degree days. There’s even a native cactus.
  • Drivers are not allowed to pump their own gas at service stations according to state law.
  • Liquor is sold as “packaged goods” (which provides easy fodder for jokes among the dirty-minded).
  • The state is home to Lucy, a human-made, six-story elephant that serves as a national historic landmark.
  • Palm trees can grow in New Jersey. Although they are not native, certain species can survive, providing the last word in tropical ambiance for its beach-going residents.
  • Beach culture is alive and well on the Jersey Shore. Several times I had to shake myself and remember I wasn’t in California.
  • Although people can be crass by Minnesota standards, at least one person in New Jersey was pretty darn nice (ahem).
A clutch of four piping plover eggs seen through the fence that protects the nest.

A clutch of four piping plover eggs seen through the fence that protects the nest.

The highlight of the trip for a piping plover novelist like myself, was seeing plover nests, chicks, and adults. While my home of northern Minnesota hardly has any, the beaches of New Jersey are home to about 100 pairs of breeding plovers. These endangered shorebirds (reminiscent in looks to a killdeer, but much cuter) are monitored and protected by the New Jersey Division of Fish and Wildlife and conservation groups like Conserve Wildlife Foundation of New Jersey.

I also saw frolicking dolphins, horseshoe crabs, diamondback terrapin turtles returning to the sea from laying eggs, and bunches of other birds unusual to me.

If you ever get a chance to visit the Jersey Shore, don’t be scared off by its television-show namesake!

Why did the terrapin cross the road? To lay its eggs, of course! Here's one on her way back to sea.

Why did the terrapin cross the road? To lay its eggs, of course! Here’s one on her way back to sea.

Farmers’ Market Find

bacon jam spread

I have been quiet for a while because I have been meandering. And what did I find during my jouney? Bacon jam! I made the discovery at a farmers’ market in Brigantine, New Jersey. At $15 a jar, it’s a bit pricey, but as the seller lady said, each jar contains a half pound of bacon. I couldn’t resist. I have a bacon-lover in my family, so the purchase was a foregone conclusion.

It’s made in Pennsylvania and according to the product’s website this bacon spread makes a great topping for scallops, cheese-based appetizers, sandwiches, and as a mix-in for sauces. Although there are different varieties (black pepper, red chili & garlic), I opted for the original, which features just plain bacon.

Who knows what other wonders await in the world?

How I Left My Appendix in London

My hospitalmates in London: Steve, red-haired Steve, and little Robert. I'm pushing red-haired Steve's chair.

My hospitalmates in London: Steve, red-haired Steve, and little Robert. That’s me pushing red-haired Steve’s chair.

When I was ten, my parents took me and one of my older brothers on a two-month trip to the U.K. and Europe. It was going to be my first plane ride. I was bit apprehensive about the whole flying in the air thing, but looked forward to the trip. We were going to camp most of the time in a rented Dormobile – it’s like a Volkswagon campervan. My mom was planning to meet her Welsh pen pal of thirty-five years for the first time, and we were searching for relatives.

About three months before we left, I started having trouble with my guts. I ended up having a proctoscopic exam, which, by the way, was extremely traumatic because the medical personnel did not explain what was going on, and I was awake during it. The findings were inconclusive and I was sent on my merry ten-year-old way.

A Dormobile, circa 1972 - about the same time we used one to travel Europe. Image credit: By Charles01 (Own work) via Wikimedia Commons

A Dormobile, circa 1972 – about the same time we used one to travel Europe. Image credit: By Charles01 (Own work) via Wikimedia Commons

My intestines, perhaps too freaked out by the exam, laid low until we landed in London. But I don’t blame them for acting up when they did. The plane ride was rather stressful.

The first leg of our journey was fine. We flew from Minnesota to Detroit, where the plane picked up additional passengers. I got the window seat in our row of three. My mom sat next to me, and next to her in the aisle chair was an elderly man who boarded in Detroit.

The pull of gravity on takeoff and the feel of the breaks upon landing impressed me. There were a few air bumps, but nothing too bad. I was enchanted by the “cloud castles” we passed – the tops of storm clouds reaching high in the air above the other clouds.

We continued to England. When we neared London, air traffic was backed-up and we had to circle Heathrow for two hours. All the circling proved too much for the gentleman from Detroit, who started moaning, turning green, and throwing up. I was left alone with him while my mom searched for a doctor.

It seemed to take forever for someone to attend to the man. In the meantime, I resorted to plugging my ears and closing my eyes to escape the scene. I had never seen anyone turn green before. Eventually, a doctor who happened to be on the plane helped the poor man. I don’t recall my mother returning to her seat – perhaps she stayed away to allow the doctor room to work.

Like the proverbial three monkeys who see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil, I kept myself blind, deaf and mute. We heard later that the Detroit man had a heart attack, but that he survived and was able to return to the U.S.

Once we landed, although I was glad to be on the ground again, I didn’t feel so well myself. We were scheduled to camp for several days outside of London. I don’t recall much else except lots of bathroom visits (and being impressed that the toilet water tank was on the wall above the toilet, not attached to the toilet bowl like back home.) After maybe two nights, I was throwing up green bile and I was out of it. I told my parents I thought I was dying. They called a doctor, who called for an ambulance. I was whisked away to Sydenham Children’s Hospital (which I hear is no more.)

I passed out in the ambulance. When I awoke in the hospital, I threw up again. I remember my mom sitting outside the exam room, crying. I don’t remember anything else until I woke up after surgery, feeling much better. They had taken out my appendix and explored around the rest of my intestines, which made for a larger scar than usual. The doctor said my appendix probably didn’t need to be removed, but that my intestines were inflamed. The pain was gone – that’s all I knew.

I spent the next two weeks in the hospital, screwing up my parent’s travel plans and pen pal visit. I was in a ward with maybe ten other children, and made great friends with Steve, red-haired Steve, and little Robert. We talked a lot from our beds and I tasted my first orangeade and learned British phrasing for food. With no television for distraction, we children shared what our home lives were like.

One phrase endures, which I have passed to my children. Little Robert would talk about how he’d say to his mum, “I have to go pee.” She would answer back, “Go on then, I’m not stoppin’ ya!” We would all laugh, so he would repeat it again, and again. What can I say? There wasn’t much else to do.

I developed a crush on red-haired Steve. I don’t recall why he had casts on both of this legs, but he seemed the nicest. Alas, we parted when I was well enough to travel again.

My parents managed to salvage the pen pal meeting. I missed travelling to Loch Ness, but hope to make up for that someday. Eventually, we crossed the English Channel to Amsterdam and visited Germany, Belgium, and Switzerland. The flight home was uneventful, and I appreciated the familiar foods and smells of home.

That, my friends, is the story of how I left my appendix in London. Want to see my souvenir? (Grins and lifts shirt.)

North Shore Spring

A frozen/melting waterfall in Gooseberry Falls State Park.

           A melting frozen waterfall in Gooseberry Falls State Park.

I meandered up the North Shore of Lake Superior last weekend, looking for signs of spring. Although no tree buds are out, the snow is all but gone (except in the shade) and the ice is melting on the rivers. I hope you enjoy these photos from the trip. Click on a photo below to see a larger image.

The Dolphin Who Ate Fish at my Feet

A dolphin beaching itself to catch fish it has pushed ashore. Cumberland Island, Georgia.

A dolphin beaching itself to catch fish it has pushed ashore. Cumberland Island, Georgia.

I once lived outside for nine months (September – May), traveling North America. The experience was through the Audubon Expedition Institute and I was working toward a graduate degree in environmental education.

While on the trip I learned I was not there for the academics but for the adventure. And there certainly was a lot of adventure. It was 1986-87 and we travelled from New York City up the East Coast to Maine and Nova Scotia, Canada. Then we took the ferry to Newfoundland. We went all the way to the northern tip (you can see Labrador and icebergs from there) and then headed back south, eventually reaching all the way to Key Largo, Fla. From there we headed West, making it to Canyonlands Utah before the yellow school bus that was our home had a fatal break down.

Along the way we tented and cooked our meals over campstoves. We sometimes lived for a week in a fishing village, or among Buddhist monks or uranium miners. We visited with local experts, learning about environmental issues and how the locals thought about the land and sea. We took hikes, canoe trips, and snorkeling excursions; swam with manatees; danced contra dances; joined pow wows and local organic fairs; and were privy to Native American ceremonies.

Me on the moors in Newfoundland, looking for caribou, circa 1986.

Me on the moors in Newfoundland, looking for caribou, circa 1986.

I got so acclimated to living outdoors that when I came home to my parents for breaks, I slept in the backyard, even when it was twenty below. My body was so used to revving up with heat at night, that I got too hot sleeping indoors. I also remember when we visited a medicine man in Boston (Slow Turtle). Twenty of us crowded into a skyscraper conference room to speak with him. That, combined with being in a heated space, made me feel faint. I had to go outside to cool off for a while.

The experience was like a combination of “Survivor” and one of those bachelor/bachelorette reality TV shows. We began with twenty-four people, but through a process of mostly self-elimination, ended up with twenty.

All this is a long preamble to what I really want to write about, which is an experience I had during the expedition with a dolphin on Cumberland Island National Seashore in Georgia. We spent several days on the island among wild horses and armadillos, hiking from one end to the other, mostly along the beach on the Atlantic side. On the other side of the island, a salt marsh and river separate it from the mainland. One evening, we camped on the mainland side. We had eaten dinner and several of us were hanging out by the water as the sun started to set.

Then the dolphins came. Two of them swam alongside the muddy banks of the river, peeling off into circles. We didn’t realize it until later, but the dolphins were corralling fish with their bodies. When enough were captured in their water circle, they rushed toward the bank. The fish were stranded on the bank, easy pickings for a dolphin who doesn’t mind a little air time itself. . I learned later that this behavior is indeed called strand feeding. Here’s what I wrote in my journal:

We run down to the Brickhill River like lunatics, insatiable for a rare glimpse into the workings of nature. We try not to get too close and scare the dolphin away, but it’s hard. We follow the dolphin as it swims along the shore, the deep mud sucking at our shoes.

The mammal tips on its side and looks at us with a dark gray eye – two, three times. It corrals the fish and rushes the bank, its whole body breaching again. We go mad. Paul jumps up and down, saying he’s seen God. I click photos like I’ve got a roll of thirty-six instead of only four photos left. Our oohs and ahhs echo across the sunset.

The dolphin wriggles its body back into the water comfortably. It swims back upriver and down. Its companion across the way breathes five times in quick succession, and with that signal, they depart.

Despite the shortage of film in my old-fashioned 35mm Olympus, I managed to snap a good picture of the dolphin doing its work. And it was just a few feet away from me – close enough for us to see eye-to-eye. It’s an experience I’ll never forget. It filled us with wonder and awe, and we felt a connection beyond time, beyond words to the place and each other.

Bye bye dolphin!

Bye bye dolphin!

Laskainen – An Enduring Finnish Phenomenon

Laskiainen Festival wear, in both camo and fluorescent orange. Perfect for deer hunting.

Laskiainen Festival wear, in both camo and fluorescent orange. Perfect for deer hunting.

Last weekend I meandered a desolate, snow-blown road about an hour north to attend the cultural phenomenon known as the Laskiainen Sliding Festival in Palo, Minn. It’s the 78th year for this event, which celebrates all things Finnish. I sold my novels at a table. I had such a good time when I was invited to sell books there a few years ago that I went back.

Laskiainen is a bring-your-own-sled experience that is held at a community center on the shores of a lake. It provides the perfect place for thousands of Fins from far and wide to slide down the hill in the back of the center onto the lake ice. The farther one slides, the taller one’s flax will grow next summer, or so the story goes.

No Finnish festival is complete without Art, the accordion guy.

No Finnish festival is complete without Art, the accordion guy.

Inside the center are rooms filled with vendors, food providers, and a Finnish museum. I got into the event late, so my table was out in a hallway, but it was great for people watching. Rosy-cheeked cherubic children in snowmobile suits passed by along with a plethora of adults, dressed mainly in camouflage (pink camo for the ladies), plaid, fur hats, fur trooper hats, plaid trooper hats, and Carhartt gear (a brand of heavy cotton work clothes). There were even several plaid snowmobile suits. A few people passed my table wearing North Face jackets, but you just know they were visiting relatives.

My table was next to some folks who sold furniture (rustic benches and tables) made of cedar, ash, and other heavenly smelling wood. I sold a few books and had lots of conversations with people who live in the forest and hadn’t talked to anyone in a week, maybe two. An elderly yet sprightly lady from a Finnish newspaper booth a few tables down spoke Finnish-English to me for about half an hour, and we did our best to communicate — about what, I’m still not entirely sure, but she did seem to like the cover of my “Eye of the Wolf” novel, which sports – you guessed it – an eye of a wolf.

The weavers of the flax.

The weavers of the flax.

Talk about Minnesota Nice – it was the type of event where a vendor can leave their table for a potty break and not worry about anyone stealing their wares; an event where the organizers write vendors thank you notes for attending and don’t ask for any payment; where old friends meet and high school classmates reconnect.

The event organizers assure me it is the longest-running Finnish festival in America. May it run (or in this case, slide) for many more. And may their flax grow tall.

The princess of sliding (one of several).

The princess of sliding (one of several).

A Spirited Reflection of One Watershed

SignDuluth, Minn., has a new attraction for tourists and residents alike. What is it? Gin!

Vikre Distillery opened this year in Canal Park, right next to the famed aerial lift bridge. It’s one of several local brewing operations new to town due to the lowering of licensing fees. But it’s the only gin distillery. I recently had the chance to sample their spirits and take a tour courtesy of Caleb Wendel, the distillery’s sales manager. Plus I talked to the co-founder/CEO/distiller, Joel Vikre, a few months ago at a public event. So here’s what I know.

Joel was living in Boston when he and his wife got the idea to open a distillery in Duluth. After all, the area has all the requirements: good water, peat, and a source of grain. Nine months later, his family moved to Duluth and his dream became reality.

One of the stills.

One of the stills.

Vikre (pronounced veek-ruh) Distillery markets its gin as “A Spirited Reflection of One Watershed.” Producing each bottle takes seven gallons of Lake Superior water combined with barley and various botanicals. Joel explained that, unlike in some distillery operations, no reverse osmosis is required with Duluth water. They just run it through a charcoal filter.

“It’s impossible to overstate the importance of water for our business,” Joel said. “We live in one of the great distillery locations in the world.”

A flight of gin.

A flight of gin.

Caleb said their gin is about 90 proof and that it comes in three flavors: the traditional juniper (made with organic juniper berries from a supplier plus a few local ones thrown in for good measure), spruce (made from soft new spruce buds that sprout in spring), and cedar. They also produce aquavit (Mikael Blomkvist’s favorite drink in “The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo” book series), which is flavored with caraway.

The bar at the distillery offers a flight so that you can sample each one. The glasses are presented on a rustic wooden platter along with two small metal pitchers of tonic and soda, and a slice of lime. Unless I heard him wrong, the bartender told me to taste first, then smell the gin, which is different from how one samples wine. But after my first try, I saw (or smelled) why. Gin tastes much better than it smells! If a person smelled it first, they are likely to get scared off by the turpentine-y aroma. Perhaps there’s some more sophisticated reason, but that’s my impression.

The bar.

The bar.

I’m more of a wine and hard cider drinker. In fact, I don’t think I’ve had gin since my college days. But this was good. With its woodsy flavors, my favorite was the juniper gin. The bar also offers mixed drinks made from their products. Because I liked the name, I tried a “Lumbersexual,” which was made of aquavit, orange liquer, lingonberry syrup and lemon.

OMG! It was so good; Nordic and not too sweet, but not too sour, either. The bad news is you can’t buy bottles of their gin at the distillery. Caleb says this is due to distributor laws, but that their products are available “everywhere” locally. I quizzed him about the small liquor store by my house, and sure enough, he said they carried it (which I confirmed later through a purchase). Almost all of their distribution is in Minnesota, but if you look at the handy-dandy map on their website, you will see they also distribute in San Francisco. And Caleb tells me they just received their Wisconsin sales license, so watch for it there.

At $30 per bottle, their gin is not cheap. But it’s worth it knowing where it comes from and to support a local enterprise.

A Lumbersexual.

A Lumbersexual.

Caleb says that whiskey is on the horizon for the distillery. It’s in process now and will be coming not-so-soon (it’s better that way). They also hope to sell their own tonic someday. And for you corn-intolerant people, it’s made with cane sugar, not corn syrup. They do offer a cane-sugar tonic for sale that’s made by a different company, however, along with glasses and other gin-drinking paraphernalia, including clothing.

If you’d like to visit Vikre, be sure to check their website for hours. They are open on a limited basis in winter. The distillery is located in the Paulucci Building. There’s no sign for it on the outside of the building at this point. Look for the sidewalk easel sign instead.

The Ears and Doors of Yale

An interesting carving in an archway at Yale.

An interesting carving in an archway at Yale.

I have a navy blue sweat jacket with white letters emblazoned across the chest that spell out “YALE.” Ivy League paraphernalia are not common in northern Minnesota, so I get sideways looks when I wear it. It’s also not common to “brag” in this manner about going to an Ivy League school. When someone is curious or brave enough to ask if I went to Yale, I delight in saying, “Yes! . . . But only for three days.”

Door1You see, I went to a science writers conference there a few years back and couldn’t resist buying the jacket. I wear it when I’m in the mood for a social joke, or when I’m cold (which happens quite often).

The wording over the door says "Yale News." A door for journalists.

The wording over the door says “Yale News.” A door for journalists.

Anywho, I thought I’d share with you some photos of my Yale meanderings. I have this thing for doors, and Yale has some great ones. It also has some great ears. If you ever get the chance to walk the campus in New Haven, Conn., look for these!

The dining hall door. Note the cooked poultry above it.

The dining hall door. Note the cooked poultry above it.

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Lake Huron

I had the privilege of spending some time on Lake Huron not long ago. After spending five days in meetings, my co-workers and I were primed to run amok along the shore at Tawas Point State Park in Michigan. The deserted lighthouse was decorated for Christmas — we felt like it was waiting just for us!

Tawas Point State Park Lighthouse, MI.

Tawas Point State Park Lighthouse, MI.

Here’s my favorite view:

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I guess it makes sense to keep the flammable oil for the lighthouse light in a separate building:

The oil building.

The oil building.

Happy holidays, everyone!

Lake Huron imitates an infinity pool.

Lake Huron in December.