Grand Cayman Island Day 3: GoPro, Snorkeling, and Stingrays

/ mariezhuikov / 22 Comments
Marie tests her new GoPro camera. Image by Russ.

At dawn on our next day in paradise, I jumped into the water off the resort dock and cavorted with three-foot-long tarpons and other smaller tropical fish during the resort’s daily fish feeding time.

Why would I put myself in the middle of a feeding frenzy with tarpons, a prehistoric fish with sharp teeth? I’ve always wanted to try underwater photography. In preparation for this trip and as a retirement present, I bought a GoPro Hero camera. It’s on the lower end in terms of price and bells and whistles, but it looked easy to use for a beginner like me. Plus, it’s small and perfect for traveling. Fish feeding time seemed like a good test run for the camera before more serious underwater adventures.

Sergeant major fish

One of my kickboxing trainers back home had experience with a GoPro and suggested I attach the camera to something that floats because, “Once you drop it, it sinks.” I immediately had visions of my camera, thirty feet below me on the bottom of the ocean – close enough to see but too far to reach with snorkel gear and ears that don’t equalize water pressure well. So, along with the camera, I purchased the Swim+Snorkel kit, which features a floating tube mount with a wrist strap and a small carrying case. On my morning outing, I was glad to discover that the camera did indeed float when attached to the tube mount.

The fish did not disappoint and neither did the camera. It was also helpful that on the dock, Russ was throwing fish food my way. Black and yellow sergeant major fish swarmed around me. Blue sea chubs darted past. Thankfully, the tarpons were shyer, keeping to the outskirts.

A tarpon lurks in the background.

The GoPro has video and photo settings. Switching between them requires a swipe of the screen. I wanted to stay in photo mode but noticed that every time a wave washed over the screen, it would switch to video mode. After my outing, I discovered it’s possible to lock the screen so that this doesn’t happen.

This discovery made our next outing that day, a trip to Stingray City, much less frustrating! For decades (between four and eight depending on who you ask) southern stingrays have gathered at a sandbar off the island to eat leftover fish parts discarded by fisherman. Our guide, Jefferson, told us mosquitoes used to be so bad on the island that fisherman came out to the sandbar to clean their fish in peace.

Here come the stingrays!

Now that mosquito populations are more under control, the rays gather to eat squid offered by tour operators instead. The attraction is tightly controlled so that the rays and the sandbar don’t get overrun, and the rays have been microchipped by scientists so that they can monitor them and ensure they aren’t getting too stressed by the human interaction.

Yes, all these wild stingrays still have their stingers! I had to prod Russ a bit to go on this adventure. He was finally persuaded by reports of the safety of the outing and the friendliness of the rays. One description likened them to giant puppies of the sea! Most of the rays are female – they’re larger than the males and friendlier, apparently.

A ray at Stingray City.

Entering the water with these soft, gentle giants was a bit freaky, but it was so cool! Russ impressed me. He was the first one off the boat and into the water with the rays. (I was second.) My GoPro worked great and I’m happy with the images I was able to capture. Russ even let a ray suck some squid off his hand and, with Jefferson’s help, he kissed a ray (and liked it)! I was too busy taking photos to partake in those activities, but I did pet a ray. The bottoms of the rays were smooth and soft, but the tops felt like sandpaper if you went against the grain. This experience was a highlight of our trip for both of us.

Brave Russ pets a stingray.

As part of our tour, Jefferson took us to a nearby coral reef, where we snorkeled for quite a while. Watching the fish was fun, but the poor condition of the reef was distressing. The coral was bleached and there were far fewer fish than there would be on a healthy reef.

We both had healthy appetites after these adventures. We satisfied them at Tukka Restaurant (East End), one of the other places on the island that serves lionfish (besides Eagle Ray’s Bar and Grill). We hadn’t made reservations, so the hostess walked us through the noisy, crowded main dining room to a lower room that sported plastic tables and chairs. However, the ocean view was just as stunning and, after the couple who were there when we arrived left, we ended up with the huge room all to ourselves! Tukka’s specializes in Australian/Caribbean fusion cuisine. I don’t recall what we ate, but it was very good. Every meal we had on the island couldn’t be beat.

Every evening at 5 p.m. restaurant staff and guests feed frigate birds off the dock. We arrived too late for that spectacle but were able to catch it by chance the next evening.

Next up: Blue iguanas, blowholes, a mansion, and frigate birds.

Grand Cayman Island Day 2: Crystal Caves and Lionfish

/ mariezhuikov / 15 Comments
A soft focus image of Lake Cave at Crystal Caves.

After foraging for food at the grocery store, we spent the afternoon of our second day at one of the main attractions on the East End/North Side of Grand Cayman Island: Crystal Caves. Most of the island is limestone and the caves were formed over millions of years from water dripping through the rocks, creating stalactites and stalagmites. In the past, people used the caves for water and for shelter during hurricanes. They were also rumored pirate hangouts.

The guided tours last 1-1/2 hours and need to be prebooked. Ours began with the manager providing an orientation. Then we loaded into two vans for a short bumpy ride to the caves. Three caves are open for tours. Our first stop was Roots Cave, which features long tree roots draping from the ceiling. The roots have grown over the years as the trees above search for water in the cave.

Open Ceiling Cave. Note the ropes on the right that people used to use to enter the cave.

Our second cave was Open Ceiling Cave, which, as you’ve no doubt deduced, has a big hole in the ceiling. The third was my favorite from a photography standpoint. Lake Cave features a small, crystal-clear body of water (more like a pond) that has filtered through the rock.

One of the caves (I can’t recall which) had some fruit bats hanging from the ceiling. I felt bad that we disturbed their daily slumber, but it was cool to see them. During all the other cave tours I’ve been on in different locales the cave temperatures have been cool. These were hot, so be prepared. If you work up a thirst, there’s a small restaurant and gift shop at the cave site.

Russ and I were so hot and sweaty afterward that once we returned to the resort, we jumped into the pool. There’s nothing that a banana daquiri from a swim up bar can’t cure!

Lake Cave

For supper, we dined at a dive bar. An honest-to-goodness dive bar run by scuba divers. We chose Eagle Rays Dive Bar and Grill because they are known for featuring lionfish on their menu. We were also drawn by its casual atmosphere and relaxing ocean views.

Lionfish (and other invasive species) have popped up in my blog before. (See this guest post from 2020 by my friend Sharon.) These are a beautiful but venomous fish native to the Indian Ocean and west Pacific. It’s thought that people who no longer wanted lionfish in their aquariums, released them into the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic, and now they have become invasive.

The good news is that, when prepared properly, lionfish are safe and good to eat! Island divers spear the fish, which are purchased by another restaurant and Eagle Rays. Rays claims to be the only place on Grand Cayman “that regularly serves everyone’s favorite marine pest.” Russ and I usually eat supper early, so we were able to get a table without a reservation. In fact, we were among the only people there, which ended up being a common and mysterious occurrence during this trip.

Lionfish tacos from Eagle Ray’s Dive Bar

Ray’s specializes in lionfish tacos, which Russ ordered. I can’t eat taco shells (wheat and corn), so they made me a special order of grilled lionfish and chips (which isn’t on the menu). Russ was very happy with his tacos and my dish was also delicious. Lionfish is a white meat, which to this Minnesotan, tastes a lot like our state delicacy of walleye.

Lionfish and chips (plus a margarita!)

As we enjoyed our meal in the sea breeze, I uttered our trip slogan once again: “Can’t do this in Duluth!”

Next up: GoPro, Snorkeling, and Stingrays

Grand Cayman Island: The Third Time’s the Charm

/ mariezhuikov / 20 Comments
Mimi’s Bar and Grill at Morritt’s Resort

I’ve been quiet for a while. Why? I’ve been meandering!

With its turquoise waters and abundant sea life, Grand Cayman Island had beckoned me for years. Russ and I have tried three times to travel to this isle in the Caribbean Sea south of Cuba. The first time, the British government closed the island due to COVID, so we had to cancel. The second time, we were able to make a lodging reservation, but we couldn’t get a flight there (probably due to COVID).

We decided to try one more time and keep our fingers crossed. It did indeed come to pass, but not without challenges. Despite my best efforts to book us flights that departed/arrived at civilized hours, after I made our reservations, the airline changed its schedules and foiled my plans. We ended up needing to awaken at 3 a.m. to leave and then return around midnight. Because of this, we booked a hotel room at the Holiday Inn Express and Suites in Minneapolis (near the Mall of America) through Expedia for before and after our trip, and left our car at the hotel, which had cheaper parking than the airport. The place had great reviews and ratings, so I thought we were safe. I received confirmations for all our reservations, and we were set!

A few days before our departure, I had a question about the parking arrangements and called the hotel for information. My Cayman-dreaming heart filled with dread when the reservation person said they couldn’t find our outbound reservation. They only had our return one. They suggested I contact Expedia to sort out the mess.

I contacted Expedia and they were great. They called the Holiday Inn but were unable to work things out with the reservation person. They asked to speak with a manager but were told no manager was available for three days. We were leaving in two days, so that was no good. Expedia said they’d refund our money for the outbound reservation and that we’d have to contact the hotel directly to redo that reservation. So, I did. Luckily, they still had room, but now it was going to cost us $50 more. However, they’d upgrade us to a room with more floor space to make up for it.

This seemed like extortion to me, but I wasn’t going to argue. The success of our trip meant too much for that. But, as you can see, I’m not above calling out the hotel’s name in the blog post to warn others. I was glad we found out about the issue with enough time to rectify it so that we didn’t arrive in Minneapolis and find we had no place to stay! (We could have stayed with some friends or relatives, but I didn’t want to subject them to our early departure and late arrival.)

A ruddy turnstone eyes our food.

This snafu left me wondering what else would go wrong, but thankfully, nothing did. Everything else went smoothly and we arrived in Grand Cayman to 90-degree temps and 70% humidity. That was quite a shock to our Minnesota systems!

We stayed at Morritt’s Resort on the East End of the island. Despite being away from the thick of the action, we found plenty to do nearby as we gained confidence driving on the “wrong” side of the road in our rental car.

We enjoyed supper at the dock bar, watching tropical fish in the sea and shorebirds flit around the dock as the sun set. It was then I uttered, “Can’t do this in Duluth,” which was to become the slogan for the rest of our trip.

A school of tarpons gather off the dock at sunset.

Next up: Crystal Caves and Lionfish.

The resort cats enjoy their supper.

My Book has a Secret

/ mariezhuikov / 11 Comments

The April/May issue of Lake Superior Magazine offers an article about my magical realism short story collection, The Path of Totality. It takes the form of a Q&A, so I actually wrote much of it. 🙂 I was tickled to be able to use a word in the article that I recently learned: eponymous. (Thanks to blogger friend Vickie Smith.) It means a person or thing that gives their name to something. In my book’s case, it’s named after the first story. I was even more tickled that the editor kept the word in the article!

One question from the editor gave me pause. It was: What question have you always wished someone would ask you? I replied that I wished people would ask me if my book had a secret.

It does, and it involves the anchor story, “Invisible Connections.” A few other secrets are scattered here and there, but will only make sense to certain people. If you get a chance, check out the magazine to learn the secret! Better yet, read my book. It’s still offered at a discount at this link.

Three Neighborhood Bear Fiascos

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Photo by Tomu00e1u0161 Malu00edk on Pexels.com

My home on the shores of Lake Superior in Duluth, Minnesota, lies next to a large and wild city park. We’re often blessed by visits from local wildlife. While I was on a walk earlier this week, I learned a new bear story from one of my neighbors, and it reminded me of two other stories about neighborhood bears.

The story my neighbor told me happened years ago at the house next to mine. The incident involved honey, a black bear, and guns. Warning: things do not end well for the bear.

My neighbor said that the event even got written up in the newspaper, so when I returned home, I began a search. I found it! The headline from the Sept. 25, 1958, Duluth News Tribune reads: “Honey-Loving Bear Killed. Elaborate Trap Ends Bee Hive [sic] Raids.”

Ole Martinson used to live in the house next door. He was a beekeeper and had several hives. Oak trees also grace the yard, and bears are drawn to the acorns. That fall, a 250-pound bear was bulking up for winter and raided the hives. Martinson complained to his neighbors, who decided to help him with his plight. The article says that the residents, “had fired about 15 shots at the bear in three days, but never were successful in hitting the animal.”

Can you image people discharging firearms within city limits like that now? (Currently in Minnesota, it’s illegal to discharge a firearm within 500 feet of a dwelling or occupied building unless you have written permission from the owner or occupant.)

After the unsuccessful hunt, a policeman who lived at the end of the road (Royce Hanna), and another neighbor concocted a plan with Martinson. They strung a line of light bulbs from a garage to a field and a lookout was posted to whistle when the bear approached in the night. The whistle was the signal for the lights to be switched on.

According to my neighbor, who witnessed the event, the first night they tried this scheme, the lookout mistook moonlight glinting off the lightbulbs for the bear’s eyes and Hanna shot out a lightbulb instead of a bear. (Apparently, they didn’t turn the lights on before Hanna shot!)

The second night, the bear walked into the trap “with 35 to 40 spectators hidden nearby. . . Someone whistled at the right time, the lights flashed on and Hanna opened fire. The policeman’s first shot wounded the bear. His second killed the animal.”

My neighbor told me that Hanna almost lost his job because he had called in sick that day and then his boss read about it in the newspaper. I guess the lesson is, don’t give interviews to newspaper reporters when you’re supposed to be sick! He also said that someone else in the neighborhood had skinned the bear and kept the hide.

The second story happened last fall. The people who now live in Martinson’s house had multiple bear raids on their garbage can, which they unwisely left outside all the time. I could tell the culprit was a bear by the scat left behind. Have you ever seen bear scat? It can look like a pile of chocolate soft serve ice cream in a pile as large as a dinner plate, depending on the size of the bear.

To deter the animal, they rigged the garbage can lid with straps to hold it down, plus tied the container to a tree in their yard. I just laughed when I saw this. Like a few little straps would deter a huge bear! Here’s a photo of what their container looked like the next morning.

Score one for the bear! After this, my neighbors cleaned out their garage enough that they could fit their garbage and recycling containers in it. I’m not sure why they didn’t do that in the first place. Must be slow learners. Or maybe they thought it was only a racoon.

Anyway, knowing that the house next door has been a bear target for years is sort of fun. At least this time, the bear got away with its life.

The third story happened in my own back yard about fifteen years ago. We were eating breakfast when we noticed the bear. My former husband was so excited, he burst out of the house clutching some doughnuts AND RAN TOWARD THE BEAR. I ran after him, asking what he was doing. “I want to feed the bear!” he said. I must mention that my former husband was from Russia. I guess that’s just what they do.

The bear took one look at this crazy Russian running toward him and promptly turned tail. He climbed a tree in a yard a few houses away. Disappointed, my husband left the doughnuts at the base of the tree for the bear once he climbed down.

I don’t recall if the bear ever ate the doughnuts, but this story was forever cemented in the annals of family history. Remember that time your dad chased a bear?

Sea Grant is in Trouble Again

/ mariezhuikov / 10 Comments
Lake Superior

The current administration is trying to do away with Sea Grant and other environmental research organizations by cutting them from the federal budget. I am hoping that Sea Grant proved its worth when this happened in 2017 and that Congress will put it back into the budget. I just retired from Sea Grant, so I’m not privy to the latest info, but here’s a repeat of my post from 2017.

I feel for my former colleagues. This is stressful and demoralizing for them. Yet I’m sure they’ll continue their good and important work to understand and keep our waters safe, nevertheless. Sea Grant is still a kick-ass program, even though I don’t work there any more. 🙂

Why Sea Grant is a Kick-Ass Program (And Not Just Because I Work There)

Iceout

/ mariezhuikov / 17 Comments

Iceout is happening.

In the North, we stand on the shore in spring and yearn, with a visceral longing, for a break in the smooth white face of the lakes. All winter, they have been a study of white, defined by the absence of blue.

As my acquaintance, former National Geographic magazine photographer and writer, Jeff Rennicke says so well, winter iceover is like an “annual sensory deprivation experience—the specter of negative space—a long, white poem of silent syllables.”

Now, that silence has been broken. As I stand on the frozen grass of our cabin lakeshore, air bubbles underneath the ice gurgle and emit otherworldly moans like the cries of a mystical animal. Blowing wind shifts the ice and I watch cracks form in the thin nearshore skim.

As Rennicke says, soon the ice will crinkle and clash, ringing like bells. Leads of open water will scroll across the blank white page like exuberant cursive. The lakes will awaken, announcing again the spin of the planets, the truth of the changing seasons.

No, the world hasn’t frozen permanently. Spring is coming once again to the North. And it is written in the iceout.

Switching a Website from GoDaddy to WordPress

/ mariezhuikov / 10 Comments
Northern Dreams — my current favorite image on my new photography pages.

Back when my first novel was published (Eye of the Wolf), I created a website using GoDaddy to promote it. That was over 10 years ago. Since then, the company almost tripled their prices and added an additional cost for a site security certificate. Figuring out how to add that certificate to my site was such a pain (Really bored? Read about that saga here) that I decided to quit GoDaddy before I had to do it again the next year. Besides, they were going to eventually do away with the ancient platform my site was built on, so I’d need to redo my website anyway.

Another drawback was that the GoDaddy platform was too old to integrate my WordPress blog into it. For a while, I had an RSS feed for my blog on my website, but that eventually stopped working. The only thing I could do was provide a weblink.

So, I decided the solution was to bring my website to my blog. Yes, this very WordPress blog! My New Year’s project was to figure out how to integrate them. Supposedly, you can just automatically move a GoDaddy site over to WordPress, but that seemed rather complicated. Other than for my photography pages, my site didn’t have a lot of content. I found it easier to just copy and paste the text from GoDaddy to WordPress.

The most difficult part was transferring my domain name (marieZwrites.com) over to WordPress. That took several phone calls to tech support and a few days of patience. (Patience = not my strong suit.) But it worked. Plus, the best thing is that WordPress doesn’t make customers pay extra for their site security certificate. It automatically comes with whatever package you sign up for. Yay!

My content about books was the most important because I had a short story collection coming out in February (The Path of Totality), so I needed a web presence to promote it. I put off working on my photography section until I retired from my day job and had more time.

Well, that time was this past week. I’m proud to unveil my new photography pages! The landing page has links to my nature-themed collections and my artist statement. The subpages are organized in “Water,” “Wood,” “Stone,” and “Sky” categories, The Water one has the most content since I am a watery person. I have at least one show set up for this summer, so I thought I should get my photography web presence out there.

If you see a photo that you like, let me know via my Contact page and we’ll work something out. I can also make my photos into puzzles, which have been very popular, or I can put them on yoga mats, tote bags, shower curtains . . . almost anything.

The site’s only been live for a few days, but I’ve already decided to add two more categories: Lighthouses and Travel. Even if that additional file space ends up costing me more through WordPress, it will still be cheaper than my GoDaddy site was. A win-win all around.

The Red-Haired Mummy

/ mariezhuikov / 32 Comments

I received notification about new results recently from one of the DNA-testing services that I use. (Note: it is not the beleaguered 23&Me.) Through this service, I had my maternal (mitochondrial) DNA tested. One report offered is called “Notable Connections.” These are “connections based on direct DNA testing or deduced from testing of relatives and should be considered as fun facts.”

Included in my results were some Swedish and Danish royalty and some poor bronze-age blokes who were dug up in England when modern roads were built. One connection sent shivers through me, however. It was for an Egyptian mummy named Takabuti. Her remains are currently on display at the Ulster Museum in Belfast. We visited that museum this summer! We went there on our first day in Ireland.

I racked my brains trying to remember if we’d seen the mummy. We must have because it’s a major display. But I don’t think we paid her a lot of attention. I mean, I’ve seen King Tut’s mummy, and after that, everything else is small potatoes. I also recall a vague distaste at seeing a dead body on display. However, if I had known I was related to this mummy, you can bet I would’ve taken more notice!

Takabuti. Image courtesy of the Egypt Museum.

According to the DNA site, Takabuti and I shared a common ancestor 6,300 years ago. She died and was mummified about 2,600 years ago in Thebes, which is now known as Luxor. The striking thing about her is that she has red hair. It has lightened to a golden color now, due to light exposure since she’s been on display. DNA testing on the mummy showed that her mother was European – probably from the Canary Islands or Southern Iberia (Spain and Portugal). Red hair is not uncommon in that part of the world. It’s thought to come from the area’s indigenous peoples who were known as the Guanches. They were believed to have originated in North Africa, specifically the Berber people of the mainland African deserts.

Takabuti was the daughter of a priest of Ammon-Ra, the sun good and the major deity in Egypt (like Zeus was to the Greeks). As such, her family would have lived comfortably and enjoyed the benefits of high status. Later, Takabuti was the mistress of a great house, and held high social standing. Although she wasn’t royalty, she was mummified to expensive royal standards.

Tragically, Takabuti’s life was cut short between the ages of twenty and thirty. Recent scientific analysis revealed she met a violent end while running, killed by an axe blow to her upper left shoulder that was likely instantly fatal. She may have been trying to escape an assailant, possibly during a period of conflict – perhaps at the hands of an Assyrian soldier or someone from her own community. A magic poultice was packed into her wound to help it heal in the afterlife.

How did an Egyptian mummy get to Ireland? The DNA site says that following the Napoleonic Wars, during a period of active trade in Egyptian antiquities (known as Egyptomania), Takabuti was purchased in 1834 by Thomas Greg of Ballymenoch House, Holywood, County Down. (Perhaps, because of her red hair, he thought he was bringing her back to her homeland?) She made history as the first mummy to be unwrapped in Ireland, with this significant event taking place on January 27, 1835, at the Belfast Natural History Society’s museum. The unwrapping generated considerable scientific interest, particularly in Belfast, then the commercial center of the Irish linen industry, which took special note of her fine linen wrappings.

The cover of a book about Takabuti shows a reconstruction of her face and the face on her coffin.

We know so much about Takabuti because she was the subject of intense academic study. Her face has been reconstructed. A book has been written about her, and she’s also been the subject of a short story. I haven’t read that story yet, but plan to soon. (It’s in Matters of Life and Death by Irish/Scottish author Bernard MacLaverty. Yet another retirement project!)

I wonder if her unusual red hair contributed to her high status is Egypt. Although I don’t have red hair, my mother had it. But hers came from her Scottish/Irish ancestry. My relationship to the mummy is a fun link to history. You can bet if I ever visit Belfast again, I’ll stop into the Ulster Museum and pay distant, distant cousin Takabuti proper respects.