Bayeux

The next day of our Road Scholar trip took us from our base in Bayeux on a bus ride to the beaches of Normandy. The beaches used to be a vacation area, but due to WWII, are forever known as places of conflict and, ultimately, victory for the Allies.

Our first stop was a bluff above Omaha Beach. This is where most of the casualties occurred, earning it the nickname of bloody beach. We viewed the remnants of an artificial harbor known as Mulberry A. Our local guide explained that the floating breakwaters, pontoons, and piers for the harbor were secretly built over six months in England and then towed across the English Channel. The components were put into place to protect Allied supply ships from storms and enemy fire while allowing them to dock and unload cargo close to the shore.

*Part of the artificial harbor offshore at Omaha Beach.*

Mulberry A was built soon after the June 6, 1944, D-Day landings. However, a violent storm on June 19–22, 1944, damaged the four-mile-long harbor severely, forcing the Allied forces to rely on open-beach landings on Omaha Beach for the rest of the campaign. Another artificial harbor was built at Gold Beach (Mulberry B), and it lasted longer.

There really wasn’t that much left of the harbor – just thin broken lines of concrete offshore. Although the view may have been unimpressive, the thought of all the effort and planning that went into constructing them was impactful.

The American Cemetery was our next stop. More than 9,000 soldiers are buried on immaculate grounds. We walked the grounds and visited another bluff that overlooks Omaha Beach. As we gazed at the now-peaceful scene, it was hard to imagine the violence that occurred on D-Day.

Our group then gathered around the “Spirit of American Youth” statue for a ceremony. One of our tour members, David, did the honors of laying a bouquet of flowers at the base of the statue. David is a U.S. Army veteran. During WWII, his father was stationed in Scotland in the Navy. He was part of a highly classified small team of men who worked on a top-secret project that involved developing reconnaissance film used in preparation for D-Day. David said he was thrilled and humbled to be part of the ceremony and to celebrate his father’s contribution.

*David at the American D-Day Cemetery ceremony.*

I don’t have any direct connection to D-Day, but as the bugle call of Taps played, even I teared up by the end. David’s wife Robin videoed the ceremony (except for the Taps part). You can watch it on YouTube. (Link provided with permission.)

One thing to note if you visit, is that no eating is allowed in the cemetery. Somehow, I missed that memo. I took out a granola bar because I was getting hangry. One of the cemetery staff members saw me, got a horrified look on her face, and indicated in French that I should put my granola bar away.

Omaha Beach was next on our agenda. We were able to walk the sands. I took off my shoes and felt the cool ocean while our guide explained that the beach has five ravines that allow access past the bluffs to the interior. These were the focus of the troops on D-Day. The bluffs above the beach and the ravines were full of machine gun and mortar nests.

Imagine being an inexperienced soldier dropped onto a beach under enemy fire and having to climb the bluffs. More than 4,000 soldiers were killed and wounded on D-Day, many of whom drowned after being hit. Any beachy enjoyment I felt faded as our guide described the happenings of that fateful day.

Next, we visited Pointe du Hoc, which features a German “pillbox” observation bunker that we could go inside. These concrete guard houses made of reinforced concrete were home to several soldiers. The narrow openings (loopholes) toward the sea allowed the soldiers to fire on the enemy. The path to the pillbox was pocked by several deep craters where bombs impacted.

*The view from inside the German observation bunker.*

After all the heaviness, I guess it was time for a drink! Our next stop was Chateau d’Englesqueville to sample Normandy’s renowned calvados apple brandy and regional cheeses. But first, owner Bernard Lebrec showed us his farm’s monument, which honors American soldiers who fought in Normandy during WWII. It’s thought to be the first erected in France.

*The 14th century tower at Chateau d’Englesqueville.*

Bernard (with cider stains on his shirt) explained that Germans took over the farm at first, but after D-Day, Americans (the 147^th Combat Battalion) used the farm as their headquarters and built an airfield across the way. The house (chateau) was built in the 17^th Century, and the farm buildings still sport a tower from the 14^th Century.

*Bernard tells us about calvados while his daughter Marie watches.*

The charming Bernard then invited us inside for a tasting. His daughter Marie helped (an easy name for me to remember), along with their two English cream retrievers. The calvados was 84 proof – really strong! It tasted like French moonshine to me. I preferred the aperitif, which was milder, and bought a small bottle to bring home. We also bought some of their apple jellies: plain, vanilla, and cinnamon. By now, the aperitif is long gone, but we’re still working on the jellies.

Besides calvados, Normandy is known for flax, dairy, lace, wheat, artichokes, apples, pears, and seafood. It’s like the Wisconsin of France.

The chateau also offers a restaurant run by Bernard’s nephew. Restaurant L’Ephemere was closed when we visited, but looked like a nice place. Travel author Rick Steves says, it’s a “laid-back, all outdoors, tres French, well-run café-restaurant serving delicious meals, salads, or just drinks with a smile.”

Our bus took us back to Bayeux, where we had time to meander around the town. We walked to the Cathedral of Our Lady of Bayeux, which was consecrated on July 14, 1077, in the presence of William the Conqueror, making it a site of great historical importance. It is believed that the famous Bayeux Tapestry, which depicts the Norman Conquest of England, was originally housed in the cathedral. The tapestry was later moved to a nearby museum. We couldn’t see it, however, because the museum is undergoing renovations and the tapestry has been temporarily relocated to England.

*Russ by the Bayeux Liberty Tree, which was planted in 1797.*

Behind the cathedral stands a HUGE “Liberty Tree.” These trees were planted across France after the Revolution to celebrate the end of the monarchy. The scale and age of the Plane Tree (species) was difficult to comprehend. (See the photo above with a teeny tiny Russ beside the tree.)

The town is known for its creperies. The most popular one (Le Moulin de la Galette) was booked solid during our stay, so we could not eat there. But we walked past it, and it was hopping! The restaurant is housed in a charming former oil and flour mill along the Aure River that has been transformed. An outdoor terrace allows guests to savor their meals while enjoying picturesque views of the river and historic buildings in Old Bayeux.

We kept following the river on a paved trail that led to a boardwalk across a wetland. The boardwalk offered a great view of the cathedral, and I took a few photos.

*The Bayeux cathedral as seen from the river boardwalk.*

Our Plan B for a crepe dinner was Au Louis d’Or. On the sidewalk, we dined all frescos for dinner on galettes (savory crepes made from buckwheat) with crepes for dessert. With camembert cheese, apples, and sausage, my galette was pure Normandy. My dessert crepe was filled with chestnut cream. Both were outstanding, and the price was very reasonable.

Whew! And so, Day 4 of 6 of our tour came to a close. We really enjoyed being in a smaller French town after the crowds of Paris. I would love to revisit Bayeux someday, perhaps once the tapestry returns. I’m not much for following military history, but I gained a greater appreciation for the machinations of WWII and the sacrifices of the soldiers after seeing the D-Day beaches and cemetery.

Next Up: Mont St. Michel and another great dinner in Bayeux

*Poppies and Forget-me-Nots at Pointe du Noc*

*A rose tree in Monet’s garden, Giverny*

I fell asleep with a head full of grandiose images of Versailles. In the morning those images faded, and I awoke with a mission: to find and eat a genuine Parisian chocolate croissant. Before our trip, many people asked what I was looking forward to most in France. I didn’t answer with a standard reply like the Eiffel Tower or Versailles. For me, it was eating a chocolate croissant. Yes, that’s all it takes to make me happy.

*A picture of a picture on a sign that describes a crookie.*

You see, in the U.S., I can’t eat anything made with wheat (or corn). From past travels, I know I have good luck eating wheat in Russia and the U.K. Today was the day I put France (and my digestive system) to the test.

A bakery was just around the corner from our hotel, so I hotfooted it over there and made my purchase. I was almost sidetracked by a new type of croissant called a “crookie” that’s all the rage, but I stuck with classic chocolate. (A crookie is a combo croissant and chocolate chip cookie.)

I was not disappointed! The croissant was so crunchy, buttery, and rich with chocolate. If I had to die in Paris now, I could die happy.

I’m also happy to say that my digestive system suffered no ill effects from the wheat, so I was free to eat like a normal person for the rest of the trip! I’ve read articles about the phenomenon of U.S. tourists in Europe who can eat wheat when they can’t at home. It may be because the wheat used in Europe contains less gluten than U.S. wheat. It could also be because fewer pesticides are used on the crop in Europe.

*The Arc de Triomphe as seen through a moving bus window*

Powered by croissant fuel, I rejoined Russ and the tour group for a bus ride to our next stop, which was the town of Giverny – site of Monet’s home and gardens. On our way out of Paris, we passed the impressive Arc de Triomphe.

Giverny was more rural than I expected, such a charming village. A long line of tourists were waiting to enter. We had to walk through them to get to the group entrance beyond. I made it through the gauntlet, but others farther back in our group line weren’t so lucky. They said an angry German woman stuck out her arm and wouldn’t let them pass. She must have thought they were cutting the line. Somehow, they convinced her to let them pass. They rejoined our group, shaken by the rudeness, and in a bit of disbelief.

But hopefully, the peace of Monet’s gardens and ponds soothed them. In addition to being an artist, Monet was quite the botanist and civil engineer. To create his ponds, he diverted the flow of a small creek. The ponds are the site of his famous waterlily paintings, which he created in his later years when his eyes were clouded by cataracts.

Like in Versailles, taking a photo without a ton of people in it was challenging, but I managed a few. Russ and I sat on a bench for a while to soak up the feel of the place. That was also a challenge with a parade of people walking past, but we were partly successful.

Then the path took us into his gardens, and next, to Monet’s pink and green house. I was surprised by all the paintings in the home, but I guess I shouldn’t have been. They were mainly by other artists who were Monet’s friends, but some were by Monet. I was also surprised by all the Japanese prints on the walls. Our guide said that Monet never went to Japan but considered the prints an investment. The home’s kitchen and dining room were quite picturesque.

Then we were back on the bus, traveling to Rouen, which is known for its cathedral, half-timbered houses, and as the place where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake.

The spot where Joan of Arc was burned bears a stone plaque and is near a large church built with a fish architectural theme (the roof looks like fish scales, etc.) We ate lunch not far from there, and then our group walked to the impressive Romanesque/Gothic-style cathedral, which Monet painted in a famous series to capture how light played on the outside.

The inside of the Notre Dame Rouen cathedral was more interesting to me than the outside because it contained the tomb of Rollo, the First Duke of Normandy, and his son, William Longsword. If you’ve been following this blog for a while, you may recall the post about my visit to Maine and the history of my Herring ancestors.

Rollo was a Viking raider who was given the land in Normandy by the French king so that he would cease his raider ways. Family lore says my ancestor was commander of Rollo’s Navy and was given the title of Viscount. In research I’ve done, I’ve learned that Rollo usually only gave titles like that to relatives (nepotism at its best!), so there’s a good chance we’re related to him.

I made a beeline for his tomb, which carries an inscription that translates to, “He toiled so hard that he died.” In life, Rollo had another nickname: The Walker. Legend has it he was too tall and massive for a horse to carry, so he had to walk everywhere. While historians have debated whether this was an exaggeration, the nickname became part of his enduring legend, emphasizing his imposing stature and intimidating presence on the battlefield. Rollo’s tomb was large but certainly didn’t seem massive.

Walking back to our bus, we saw many properties with bullet holes remaining from WWII activities in Rouen. This included the local police station. The French are sensitive to accusations that they didn’t fight back against the German invasion, but this proves that in Rouen, they did.

Another bus ride took us to the town of Bayeux, which was to be our base for the next few days. After supper, we had free time. Russ and I were able to meander around. We found a city park with a fountain in the middle that depicts the local woman who married Rollo. Her name was Poppa.

*Poppa’s fountain in Bayeux. She was Rollo’s wife.*

Reflecting on the day, I’m struck by how each experience—from the simple pleasure of a perfect croissant to the awe of Monet’s gardens and the storied streets of Rouen—wove together into a delightful tapestry. These moments, both grand and small, capture the magic of travel: unexpected connections, new tastes, and a deeper sense of history coming alive. France continued to surprise me at every turn, and I was looking forward to what tomorrow would bring.

Next up: The D-Day Beaches of Normandy, Apple Brandy, and Bayeux

Marie's Meanderings

Internet home for Marie Zhuikov: Blogger, Author, Poet, Photographer

France Day 4: D-Day Beaches, Apple Brandy, Bayeux

France, Day 3: Monet’s Gardens and Rouen (and a chocolate croissant)