Bear Head Lake State Park

One of the small docks along the shore of Bear Head Lake.

Russ and I had only used our Scamp trailer once this summer (to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore), so, we decided to get one more trip in before the snow began to fly. We chose Bear Head Lake State Park in northern Minnesota for several reasons: it was nearby, and we had passed the turnoff for it several times and wondered what it would be like to stay there. We were also intrigued because we’d heard that in 2010, it won the America’s Favorite Park contest. It must have something going for it!

We pulled into our site on a Friday evening. We chose a site on a loop that bordered the lakeshore. One thing that impressed us was that all campers have equal access to the shore. No sites are directly on the lake (they’re across the road from it), but there are several trails off the road that lead down to small docks that are perfect for fishing or lake-gazing.

The beach at Bear Head Lake State Park.

The air was warm for mid-October and the wind was calm. After our Spam and eggs supper, we took a walk on trails along the lake. The tamarack trees and aspens were still clothed in their splendid yellows. The trail ended at a beach surrounded by tall red pines. We’d find out later that these pines were spared during logging times because they were too small to be of interest. Good thing the place is a state park because they’d certainly be of interest to loggers now!

A Trail Center building nearby offered bathrooms and a warm place for hikers to gather before heading out on any one of the park’s 13 miles of paths. I discovered later that the impressive center was built thanks to the park’s standing in the 2010 contest, which was sponsored by Coca Cola. The park won $100,000, which they spent to build the center.

At the time, the park staff credited their win to Facebook and the power of social media because a popular bear frequented the park and people wanted to help draw attention to the bear’s home. The bear is no doubt long gone, but the Trail Center stands as a testament to the good will of social media strangers.

After our hike we enjoyed a fire (firewood is for sale at the park office). Our plans to hike the next day were disrupted by a steady drizzle. We opted to drive to Ely, Minnesota, instead. One of our stops was the Dorothy Molter Museum, which I described in my previous post. We also ended up getting a private tour of the Pioneer Mine Museum. Like the Dorothy Molter Museum, it was also open past Labor Day, contrary to its publicized operating season.

We didn’t intend to visit the Mine Museum. We began walking on a paved trail around Miner’s Lake but the steady drizzle and my failing health (I was catching the flu or something from Russ) made us turn around after a short jaunt.

As we neared our car in the parking lot of the Mine Museum, a man called to us from a building atop a nearby hill. He said the museum was open and he’d gladly give us a tour. Having nothing else better to do on a rainy day, we took him up on his offer.

The Pioneer Mine closed in 1967 and its payload was iron ore. The museum featured a plethora of artifacts and photos from its hey day. Our guide was Seraphine Rolando whose grandfather and other relatives had worked in the mine. Seraphine was a great storyteller and regaled us with tales of memorable rescues and descriptions of what it was like to work in the mine. Unlike the nearby Tower-Soudan Mine, the Pioneer Mine was wet, dirty, and much more hazardous.

Seraphine is a legend in his own right. I found this profile of him in the local Ely paper after I returned home. I easily remembered his name because one of my ancestors was named Seraphina, which must be the female version of his name.

Seraphine Rolando in the mine museum. Image courtesy of Trip Advisor

After our tour, we stopped at the Evergreen Restaurant in the Ely Grand Lodge for lunch. Interestingly, the lodge is built on a pile of mine tailings. The restaurant featured a beautiful view of Shagawa Lake and more golden trees.

Rain featured heavily on our next camping day, too. We ended up leaving for home a few hours early because I was now fully engulfed by the flu. But I recovered and am now ready for more meanderings.

Staying at Bear Head Lake State Park is like staying on a lake in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, but with more conveniences. Electric sites are available but not water hookups. A pump well is in the park and civilized toilet facilities are also available. They were closed during our visit, however, so we had to make do with an outhouse.

A final thing I wanted to mention was that one of our camping neighbors employed was using a leaf blower as they were packing up to leave. I suppose they were cleaning leaves off their outdoor carpet, or something. That was a new one on us – hearing a leaf blower at a campground. It’s bad enough hearing them at home, much less in a natural space. I sure hope this doesn’t become a trend!

The view from Evergreen Restaurant in Ely, MN.

Biking the Mesabi Trail from Ely West

Miners Dry Building at the Pioneer Mine Museum, tour headquarters in Ely.

Russ and I meandered farther north in Minnesota earlier this summer to bicycle in the Great River Energy Mesabi Trail Tour. Although we’ve biked on this trail in several different locations, this was the first time we’d travelled this new stretch of it and participated in the official annual tour. Note: this is not a race, it’s a recreational tour.

Bikers can sign up for several different distances: 12, 30, or 50 miles. Russ is such a bicycling animal he’d normally sign up for 50 miles. But some of us still have day jobs and can’t spend all our waking hours biking (😊), so he indulged me and we both signed up for the 12-mile tour.

The Mesabi Trail is paved and, once totally built, will stretch 165 miles from Grand Rapids to Ely, Minnesota. It’s almost all complete. The Ely part is the newest section, so we were eager to traverse it.

The tour began at the gritty, post-industrial Pioneer Mine Museum, which features photos and artifacts from an underground iron ore mine that closed in 1967.

The trail wound past a lake, through a few blocks of town, and then we were in the woods, along with 400 other people who were on the tour. There was no official start time, so people began biking in drips and drabs, which made for a less crowded experience.

Russ signed us up, so he had the tour map and I was fairly clueless about our route and where our turnaround point was. Also, the turnaround points were not marked on the actual trail (note to trail organizers, this might be a good idea!)

The spot on the trail by the raspberry patch where we finally turned around. (Note, the cyclists are not us. They are just some other people who didn’t stop for the raspberries.)

We passed one rest stop, which only felt about 3 miles out to me, but it was actually 6 miles and was our turnaround point. Because we were clueless and in good form, we kept going another couple miles, past a huge scenic meadow and lovely white pines until Russ found a patch of raspberries. Russ never met a wild raspberry he didn’t like, so we stopped so he could forage.

Once he was done eating, Russ thought to look at his exercise ap and discovered that we had gone over our mileage. So, we turned back, completing 16 miles instead of 12. No big deal, plus I probably needed the extra exercise, anyway.

Back at the museum, a little lunch was waiting for us, along with musical entertainment. We also ran into a few people we knew at lunch and met some new people on the trail. Much more fun than biking alone!

For information about other sections of the trail, please read:

Biking the Mesabi Trail from Hibbing to Chisholm

Biking Along the Giant’s Ridge

Biking Across Minnesota’s Tallest Bridge

Miners Lake in Ely. The bike trail goes past it. There’s also a paved trail around the lake.